Sharpening a Manix 2 LW

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rmeron

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Sep 28, 2011
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I have a Manix 2 LW coming from a forum member. Does anyone know the degree of blade edge angle for sharpening? I have a Lansky sharpener with the different rods and stones.
 
rmeron said:
I have a Manix 2 LW coming from a forum member. Does anyone know the degree of blade edge angle for sharpening? I have a Lansky sharpener with the different rods and stones.
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Factory edge should be 30° primary with a 40° micro bevel but they are hand sharpened so they do vary a bit. Your best bet is to mark the edge with sharpie and go over it with a high grit stone to see if you're hitting the apex.
 
If it still has the factory edge it should be close to 30 degrees. If it has been sharpened much, your best bet is to take the time to fully reprofile to 15 dps. Once you have a clean apex, the steel is very easy to microbevel. Trying to sharpen the entire edge bevel each time with this steel gets frustrating. Microbevel works very well IMO.
 
rmeron said:
Thanks, The knife is BNIB so I should have a great factory edge.
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In that case, you should be able to sharpen it very easily with a light microbevel. Just a few light strokes at 18-20 dps should bring the edge back very quickly.
 
I love when people put faith in factory edges to be perfect and sharp. In my experience you have about a 30% chance it will line up with the preset angle of the SM, and about a 10% chance the bevels will be even. Also, ther is NO intentional microbevel, it's a two step process of belt grinding and high speed deburring.
 
Hi Jason, my only point was that the factory edge on the Golden Spyderco's are (almost) always below 20 dps so adding a 40 degree microbevel should work fine whether the bevels are perfect or not. For best results, I always reprofile and get things exact. But for those who just want to do a quick touchup a 40 degree mb will almost always work on a factory edge on a Golden knife. ;)

FWIW, Golden is doing a lot of their sharpening by robot now. I've had a couple of those knives recently and the factory edges are very impressive in their level of accuracy. I'm not sure if the new manix LW's are getting that treatment or if they are still being hand sharpened.
 
I do not know which Golden models are being sharpened by hand and which are being sharpened robotically but my S110V Para2 had a perfectly flawless bevel. I do not think it was done by hand. Also, unlike my Taichung Spydies which have come with all sorts of odd (terrible) bevels my Golden Spydies have almost always come with something close to a 30 degree inclusive.

The advice above is all good. You should be able to just start with putting on a 40 degree microbevel. Of course reprofiling and setting it where you want it is never a bad thing.
 
bearfacedkiller said:
I do not know which Golden models are being sharpened by hand and which are being sharpened robotically but my S110V Para2 had a perfectly flawless bevel. I do not think it was done by hand. Also, unlike my Taichung Spydies which have come with all sorts of odd (terrible) bevels my Golden Spydies have almost always come with something close to a 30 degree inclusive.

The advice above is all good. You should be able to just start with putting on a 40 degree microbevel. Of course reprofiling and setting it where you want it is never a bad thing.
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Yeah, the last few pm2's I've seen looked like they pretty much HAD to be machine sharpened. Perfect! The Manix 2 LW I got from Elena86 had bevels that were slightly uneven which contributed to a bit of sharpening frustration. Unfortunately, I do not remember if it had been sharpened when I received it or if that was the factory edge. Either way, it was close enough that it only took about 15 minutes to reprofile and now all is well.
 
Thanks,
So I should use the 40 degree on the Lansky and use the very fine stone just to touch up?
 
rmeron said:
Thanks,
So I should use the 40 degree on the Lansky and use the very fine stone just to touch up?
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That is what I would try first. If your edge bevels are fairly even and below 20 dps (they probably are) then that should be all you need to do for awhile. As someone else suggested, you might want to color in the bevels with a sharpie and see where the marker is removed after a few passes. If you find that you are only removing the marker right at the very edge/apex then you are good to go. If you are removing all of the marker on one or both sides then you might consider a reprofile to 15/side. That probably won't be necessary for awhile though.
 
rmeron said:
Thank you Surfingringo.
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You are very welcome. Spend a bit of time in the maintenance & tinkering forum if you want to pick up more info. Pay attention to Jason B. and the other pros over there too. They know their stuff. ;)
 
I'll tell ya Lance.....I think you're right in regards to the robotic sharpening bro!
I recently got a blurple Manix and I've never seen a more perfect edge. Sharpest of any Spydie, or any prod model! Also, perfectly even bow to stern!!! See what I did there???
Sorry for the bad pics. But hope you can see what I mean.
I have not touched this edge at all!

b89da60af2d6047f401271fda0f130f3.jpg
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It definitely will my friend!!! Handled a few and they all looked and felt like this!
One tip.......action was a little tight out of the box. Nothing outrageous, but I like them smoother!
Sprayed Ballistol in the pivot and left it over night. Blew it clean the next day and then a tiny drop of blue lube, or any good lube. Then flick away!!!
Mine loosened up a lot that way, but I wanted just a touch looser. I loosened the pivot just a hair.......now she's a free dropper with NO play!!!
Excellent excellent knife that you will love!!
Good luck!!
Joe


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