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Sharpening a Military
- Thread starter CCV
- Start date
How do you define "the correct angle to use for re-sharpening?"?
Do you mean stock Spyderco as-delivered edge-bevel angles? Which Sharpmaker angle to use?
If you mean 'optimum' edge-bevel, I think that is defined more by intended use of the blade in typical EDC tasks and how well the steel maintains an edge in EDC use.
I prefer an edge that push-cuts and slices well and can handle wood-whittling, without frequent stop-and-resharpen sessions. I usually re-profile a new blade with primary bevel of 10 degrees each side, usually ending with included angle of 25 degrees at the edge after burr-removal and stropping. If the blade can't handle that angle without edge damage or frequent resharpening, I increase the secondary edge-bevel to a wider edge included-angle (30 or 35 degrees), whatever is needed for what I consider 'optimum' performance.
In other words, I feel only you can determine the 'correct angle', based on your own cutting task requirements and the edge-holding properties of your blade.
Do you mean stock Spyderco as-delivered edge-bevel angles? Which Sharpmaker angle to use?
If you mean 'optimum' edge-bevel, I think that is defined more by intended use of the blade in typical EDC tasks and how well the steel maintains an edge in EDC use.
I prefer an edge that push-cuts and slices well and can handle wood-whittling, without frequent stop-and-resharpen sessions. I usually re-profile a new blade with primary bevel of 10 degrees each side, usually ending with included angle of 25 degrees at the edge after burr-removal and stropping. If the blade can't handle that angle without edge damage or frequent resharpening, I increase the secondary edge-bevel to a wider edge included-angle (30 or 35 degrees), whatever is needed for what I consider 'optimum' performance.
In other words, I feel only you can determine the 'correct angle', based on your own cutting task requirements and the edge-holding properties of your blade.
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2002
- Messages
- 1,525
CCV,
from what I understand, Spydies usually come from the factory with a 30 degree angle(15 each side) which takes away the need for any backbeveling. The Spyderco recommended angle, which gives you a slightly tougher, longer lasting edge, is 40 degrees(according to the 204 instruction manual), but this is solely a word of advice and not a requirement.
I keep my S30V Millie PE at a 30 degree angle and the edge holds up just fine, with touchups about once a week or so depending on use. I've also found that the S30V doesn't chip at this angle as with my 440V Military and Starmate models.
It's up to you on what edge angle you'd like to keep or sharpen at, but for the S30V Military, the 30 degree works great, IMO.
Just my .02
Good Luck
from what I understand, Spydies usually come from the factory with a 30 degree angle(15 each side) which takes away the need for any backbeveling. The Spyderco recommended angle, which gives you a slightly tougher, longer lasting edge, is 40 degrees(according to the 204 instruction manual), but this is solely a word of advice and not a requirement.
I keep my S30V Millie PE at a 30 degree angle and the edge holds up just fine, with touchups about once a week or so depending on use. I've also found that the S30V doesn't chip at this angle as with my 440V Military and Starmate models.
It's up to you on what edge angle you'd like to keep or sharpen at, but for the S30V Military, the 30 degree works great, IMO.
Just my .02
Good Luck
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2001
- Messages
- 2,558
Short answer, I use the 204's 30 degree setting for my S30V Millie with no problem. I touch it up about every two weeks or as required. I like to keep a stupid sharp edge though.