Sharpening a MOD CQD folder

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DocNightfall

Joined
Nov 20, 2006
Messages
268
I have a MOD CQD Mark I, and I'm looking for sharpening advice from any others out there who have this knife too, or anything similar. I truly was not prepared for the blade thickness on this one. Out of the box, it's a hell of a slicer, but the thickness really makes it a bad push cutter.

I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker, often with the V-rod setup, but occasionally I also use the rods set in place horizontally in the base like a bench stone to get bevel angles other than 30 and 40 inclusive.

What bevel angle and final grit do you guys suppose I could use if I want to improve the cutting performance while still keeping true to the designer's vision of a hard-use folding fighting knife / field knife / rescue tool?
 
You will not beable to sharpen the MOD on the sharpmaker without thining out the shoulders. I had to take my MOD CQD Mark II and my friends Mark I to a diamond bench stone first to cut down the shoulders of the blade before you can even come close to touching the edge. Once you get the shoulders down, its a breeze to sharpen. I HIGHLY suggest you use the sharpie idea so you can tell how much you need to take away from the knife.
 
I reprofiled mine on 15+15, but using diamond rods and it take few days. I think you need something more coarse then sharpmaker regular stones and even sharpmaker diamond.

Thanks, Vassili
 
I don't have the diamond rods, so I suppose I have lots of hard work ahead. That cryo-processed 154CM is teh dope.
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Buy a cheap x-coarse stone. You can find them in hardware stores for a dollar.

-Cliff
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That is a good idea. I purchased a smith dbl sided diamond bench stone and used it to get thouse shoulders down. Once down, than you can get it sharp on the sharpmaker.

Note* That I talked with Mike Janich from MOD and he told me that they make the knives like the way they do because it looks better. He also told me himself that you have to thin out the shoulders a bit to get them sharp. Hope that helps.
 
Yeah, What Cliff said. Buy a cheap diamond blocks. coarse and medium grits, blue, orange and yelow. And you can place them, lay it on the sharpmaker rod flat at 15 or 20 so you can keep the angle and remove metal fast then go to the rods themselves. I do all my knives I want to reprofile that way. I'm getting a bench belt sander for this as soon as someone gives me advise about exactly what I need from home depot.
 
DocNightfall said:
I don't have the diamond rods, so I suppose I have lots of hard work ahead. That cryo-processed 154CM is teh dope.
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I'd recommend that you stop now. Reprofiling an edge on the sharpmaker does not work unless that edge is almost there to begin with. It will take tens of hours on the medium grit stone, maybe hundreds.
 
Peter_E_Ryt said:
I'd recommend that you stop now. Reprofiling an edge on the sharpmaker does not work unless that edge is almost there to begin with. It will take tens of hours on the medium grit stone, maybe hundreds.
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I can tell you for sure - it toke about ten hours (in several days) with new Sharpmaker diamond rods, with ceramic medium rods it will be impossible. I found recentely EzeLap Diamond Products 121XC - long bench-stone with 150 grit. But it is not cheap, quite expensive, actually.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
killerskill said:
Yeah, What Cliff said. Buy a cheap diamond blocks. coarse and medium grits, blue, orange and yelow. And you can place them, lay it on the sharpmaker rod flat at 15 or 20 so you can keep the angle and remove metal fast then go to the rods themselves. I do all my knives I want to reprofile that way.
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Great idea! I'll do that.
 
DocNightfall said:
Great idea! I'll do that.
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You also may just put them in wise ander this angle or cut out simple base out of wood - make triangular cut 30 degree... Some people just wrap sandpaper over Sharpmaker rods...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I'll echo Cliff.

I usually do my heavy reprofiling on a cheap extra-coarse aluminum oxide bench stone I got from a Chinese store for about $2. Load it up with water, scrub away, keep it rinsed off very liberally.

Because my sharpening skills are so poor, it's usually not pretty, but it works, and it goes fast.

If I need it to be pretty, the extra-coarse hone on the EdgePro also cuts through steel very quickly.
 
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