Sharpening a mora/ mora micro bevel

[Waldamir]

Im have been working on sharpening my mora robust on a cheap smiths diamond stone i picked up from wally world and I cant seem to get it as sharp as It origanlly came. After some use the edge developed some chips as well and they haven been a stickler to get out. I was wonderinng if putting a micro bevel on it with my lansky crock sticks would help. My main uses for the knife would be general camp work like carving, batoning, feather sticks, whittling etc...

 

[t1mpani]

What's your concern? A microbevel will make the edge a bit more robust (how much depends on how steep your secondary bevel is), and likely won't have a significant negative affect on its cutting ability in most cutting tasks. You'll no longer be able to just lay the wide bevel down flat to sharpen it--unless you're returning it to its original geometry--and the angles at which you have to hold the knife relative to your cutting media will be changed a bit in terms of carving/whittling. Try it and see how you like the results. If it doesn't work out, you can always give up a bit of steel to the grinding gods and reset the original bevel.

 

[mrdeus]

Many Moras come with a microbevel.

 

[Waldamir]

What's your concern? A microbevel will make the edge a bit more robust (how much depends on how steep your secondary bevel is), and likely won't negatively affect its cutting ability in most cutting tasks. You'll no longer be able to just lay the wide bevel down flat to sharpen it--unless you're returning it to its original geometry--and the angles at which you have to hold the knife relative to your cutting media will be changed a bit in terms of carving/whittling. Try it and see how you like the results.

My main concerns are ive heard that it will "ruin" the knife.

 

[HeavyHanded]

My main concerns are ive heard that it will "ruin" the knife.

It won't ruin it, but it might perform better for bushcrafting and utility if you just apply a slight convex to it. Factory Mora bevel measured at the shoulder is only 23 degrees inclusive - that's a bit thin for most uses. You could put on a microbevel or just elevate the spine a degree or so per side and work it from shoulder to bevel. End result will be similar - a thicker terminal edge angle, but the slight convex maintains more of the carving efficiency than a microbevel. Just my opinion. FWIW most if not all of my Scandi ground edges came with a slight convex and or a microbevel. They also weren't as sharp as I like my edges to be.

 

[Coad]

Have you completely removed the ridges on the bevel? I use sandpaper on a table. 150 will get those chips out. Then 220 followed by 400. Ive never put a secondary on a mora.

 

[t1mpani]

My main concerns are ive heard that it will "ruin" the knife.

As others have said, it won't ruin anything. You can move a knife from flat to full convex to scandi to hollow if you know what you're doing. Granted, doing all of those would be rather time/steel consuming and silly.