Sharpening a recurve

Joined
Jul 18, 2001
Messages
87
Is there a better/faster way than using the sharpmaker. Im trying to sharpen an Outdoor Edge Impulse. Im done on one side, but the other side is taking a really long time. Ive had to clean the stones out twice already.
 
Sharpening a recurve on a benchstone can be tricky. Try sharpening the bevel on the outter edge of the stone (the side). That way the bevel will ride along the edge therefore sharpening your knife.

Which stone are you using?

Consider a Spyderco Sharpmaker 204. It is a very useful system for recurves.
 
I have a 204, but it takes so long. I also have a DMT bench stone and diafold rod for serrations, but the diamonds fell off after the first swipe.
 
Hit the post button too soon again. I'm in the reprofiling stages of the sharpmaker now. The edge of the DMT is fairly square. I'm not sure how much of a radius there is to get into a recurve.
 
The Sharpmaker 204 is well worth the investment for recurved edges, which, BTW, are becoming more prevalent.

Spyderco is coming out with diamond stones to fit the 204, so re-profiling will be alot quicker. I think they will be available this fall.

The trick with the 204, is to just use the corners of the stones, not the flats.
 
I roughed up the corners of the grey stones like the video said. They cut pretty fast now, just not as fast as my flat DMT blue stone. I guess I'll just have to be patient.
 
The fastest way would be to get a large coarse hone and use the corners. Just freehand it, it is not like you have to be accurate. The goal is just a shaping, not a sharpening. You need to reduce the angle down to something close to the Sharpmaker setting. Once this is done you use the Sharpmaker to actually do the sharpening. A Dremel would do it quite quickly, just don't press too hard and cool the blade often. In regards to the Diamond rod, yes the rods are delicate because of the high pressures generated by the circular surface.

-Cliff
 
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