Sharpening a SAK

K

klattman

Joined
May 5, 2004
Messages
1,055
Hi all,
I just picked up a new cybertool. This is my first real SAK, and the blades are not very sharp. I know SAKs use stainless, but not how hard they are. How thin can I sharpen the edge? What angles work best, while preserving the realtively softer steel on a SAK?
I have been carrying a D2 queen stockman, which I have thinned and shapened (<15 deg, then 18-20), and the blades hold a very good edge. Can I go that thin on the SAK blades, or should I leave it thicker?

To summarize, what angles would you use to sharpen a SAK without comprimising it?

P.S. I know it depends on the application, BUT what would YOU use?
;)
 
I have used the Spyderco Sharpmaker on my SAK Classic and it works great. I highly recommend it.
 
I have done 15/20 degree double bevels on SAKs and they are fine, but I usually just use a single bevel of 20 or even 22 degrees (my old crocksticks are set at 22). I think you´ll find they are much easier to sharpen than D2 and a single bevel is easy to keep.
 
I'll second the Sharpmaker recommendation. I usually use the 40 degree setting on my Swiss Army knives.
--Josh
 
I have never worried about the softness of SAK steel. I thin the edge to about 12 degrees per side, sharpen to 15 degrees per side on a Sharpmaker then finish with a few strokes at 20 degrees. I probably run it thinner than you do on your D2 blade. The hardness on a SAK is 56 RC or less. The steel is relatively tough for a stainless. I've never chipped mine.
 
It seems that the SAKs are hard to chip so I wouldn't worry about that aspect... As for worrying about edge holding if you thin the edges: DON'T worry. The thinner the edge is the better geometry it has, so even if it does lose it's edge slightly quicker, it has so much of an advantage on a thicker edge already that it doesn't matter.

Or at least thats how it seems to be for me.
-Kevin
 
My sharpmaker keeps mine rediculously sharp with a simple touch-up. Don't know the angle, but man it is sharp.
 
Followed original bevel. Dulled it opening beer boxes (didn't know the cap was under the preforated thing and hit the caps) Sharpened right up to finger removing sharp
 
SAK's are easy to sharpen on a stone. My Alox Farmer seems to dull in small segments of the blade. If you have an Arkansas tri-stone type set-up and the blade is not very dull or just slightly dinged, start with a few strokes on each side on the medium stone. Then move to the fine and get a good finished edge. Try to feel for blade resistance. At a given sharpening pressure a sharper, better finished blade will have less resistance and will seem to slide more easily over the stone. This depends on feel to detect. Finally, finish by stropping with medium light to light pressure on thick leather. Start on the rough side of the leather, moving the blade backwards (away from the edge), then move to the smooth side when less resistance is felt. Use the smooth side until resistence seems minimal to nil. This should result in a highly useable, quite sharp edge. Stropping is also a great way to bring back a more biting sharpness on a knife that has dulled slightly.

I think SAK's are one of the easiest of the stainless knives to sharpen. They take a great edge as compared to CRKT AUS-6 stainless for example.
 
Thanks for the recommendations. I sharpened it once quite thin, and it was great. Then I thinned it MORE and it cuts even better. It definitely was easy to get a shaving edge on it with just my lansky kit and a light touch. Let the SAK addiction begin.

Of course I won't give up my D2 blades anytime soon.
 
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