Sharpening a scandi grind in the field

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rjc149

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Feb 23, 2012
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Hey fellers,

What's the best technique to sharpen a scandi knife in the field, keeping the zero-profile edge (no microbevel)? I saw a Ben's Backwoods video where he runs a diamond plate up and down the bevel parallel to the edge, instead of perpendicular to the edge. Is that effective? In terms of field sharpening, wouldn't a hollow grind be easier, because you can sharpen it in rounded stones, car windows etc?
 
For field maintenance of Scandi or full convex I'd go with a strop of some sort, or a fine grit sandpaper. It could be as simple as filing a flat area onto a walking stick and using compound right on that, a small block of wood you could wrap sandpaper around would work too. I've heard of people gluing a piece of sandpaper inside their belt, with some compound applied right next to it - touch up and finish with one tool. Entirely possible to use any stone - a puck or small combination stone will do just fine as well, provided you're reasonably comfortable using one.
Some folks just apply a microbevel till they can get back and fix it up properly, but that's not what you asked - personally I'd go with a few pieces of sandpaper.
 
rjc149 said:
In terms of field sharpening, wouldn't a hollow grind be easier, because you can sharpen it in rounded stones, car windows etc?
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Kinda, but not because a hollow grind is a hollow grind. The cutting edge on a hollow grind is usually a glorified microbevel. Albeit not very micro usually. A general rule in the narrower of a bevel, the less flat the surface has to be. I say general cause strops throw that rule out the window. Wider bevels work much better in that case.
 
The longitudinal sharpening actually works quite well once you have the hang of it. You just have to make sure you stay flat on the bevel, otherwise it is easy to widen the bevel at the shoulder and/or grind in a microbevel which you don't want it seems. This way it will stay very flat. I however prefer a slight convex scandi bevel which often comes from the factory that way and the result of free hand sharpening a scandi will result in a slight convex scandi as well. It may give you a bit better edge retention but what I think is the biggest advantage is it works better for feather sticks and shavings IMO. The only problem I have encountered with scandi sharpening on a stone is you still have to maintain your angle as much as you do it with a v bevel knife. Appreciating the feedback from the stone is as important. Otherwise if you "only" rely on the fact that the scandi gives you the right angle, you run the risk of widen the bevel on and on until you notice that the angle got more acute over the time of sharpening (if that makes sense) and the shoulder got "sharpened" away.

IMHO do short!! slow!! forth and back strokes, the risk of constantly changing the angle with your wrist is less likely this way. If you prefer a more convex bevel, do longer strokes and maybe a bit faster. That way more wrist rolling comes into play.
 
I think he's referring to the tactile and audible feedback you get from the stone. Next time you go to sharpen a cheap knife, roll the angle a bit. High so you're hitting the actual edge, low so you hit the should and normal to you hit the bevel. Then pay attention to the sound. All three with feel and sound different. Especially with varying pressure and when an apex is formed or there is a burr. It's easier for me to tell the differences with finer, denser stones. Arkansas and ceramics mostly. Can't say on waterstones, and diamonds mute everything a bit for me.

ETA: awestib, correct me if i'm way off in understanding you/ this concept.
 
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