Sharpening a Sebenza on a Spyderco Sharpmake

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Oct 4, 2012
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Hey all... I just wanted to get some tips/ opinions on sharpening a sebenza on a spyderco sharpmaker... I know its recommended by CRK, but is it the best way to sharpen it? I dont know how to free hand. On my old sebenza, i sharpened it on the sharpmaker but i just couldnt get it hair popping sharp! I've read places that it may be because of the convex edge, the edge and not being compatible or more than 40 degrees, having to reprofile the blade angle. Do I turn the blade a lil as it gets closer to the tip or keep it perfectly parallel with the sharpmaker. Tons of other stuff. I really like the sharpmaker system so would like some tips or suggestions please... I would also like to get that mirror polish on my blade edge... I've read alot about strops but do not own one. I currently just use the back of a notepad (cardboard) with mothers wheel polish spread on it... And if anyone has suggestions/ links for strops that would be helpful too... Any other tips/ suggestions on sharpening would be greatly appreciated! Thanks all... :cool:
 
I've been sharpening free hand for a long time(ex butcher), but I also keep a Sharpmaker set up on my kitchen counter.
I have no problem getting a Sebenza hair popping sharp with it. I try not to let a knife get dull, but if I do I use the medium rods, and then the fine at 40 degrees(20 per side). I then use a Lee Valley strop loaded with the green compound.

I have ultra fine rods, but seldom use them. A highly polished edge will cut media such as thin paper better, but I find it doesn't hold an edge quite as long. A more toothy edge will work better on meat if you use your knife for hunting, fishing, etc...
The 40 degree won't slice quite as well as a 30, but I find the 40 holds an edge a bit longer for me, leaves a tough edge, yet still cuts well.

Its best to never let your knife get dull. After you use it touch it up on a strop, or a few strokes on the fine rods, or a fine stone.
On my knives I use strictly for hunting I only use medium rods, or stones.

Everyone has their own method though, so just find out what works best for you.
 
I use it on the 30 degree side. I could never get it sharp before, but I had someone reprofile it for me. I also use a strop at 15 degreeish and it's working pretty well.

I have the ultra fine rods but find that using medium, then stropping, then going to fine, then stropping gives me the best results. But to be fair I'm pretty bad at it lol
 
I use the sharpmaker for sharpening all of my knives. I have used the sharpmaker style of sharpener for 25+ years and prefer it over all others. I started using the vintage Case, Lansky, Smith's Sharpeners and they all resemble the sharpmaker, so I have had tons of experience like I said.

When I sharpen on the sharpmaker, as you get towards the tip, about 1 1/2" inches back, I turn the blade slightly so the rods contact the gradual curve towards the tip. If you dont, over time, it will begin to wear down the shoulder near the point making a very thin and weaker point, eventually. You will see some pictures of bad sharpening jobs because they did not do this thoughout the forums over the years. ALSO, when you get to the tip, STOP with the point resting in the middle of the sharpmaker flat side so as to not round the tip. And when sharping on the edges of the sharpmaker, stop at the tip as well because if it keeps slipping off, it will round the tip. For this reason, I mainly sharpen on the flats of the sharpmaker rods only......But with having using the round rods for so long, I am used to stopping at the end of the stroke on a round rod.

Also, dont push super hard, let the stones do their job. And probably the most important tip is to clean the rods often.

I also only ever use the 40 Degree side, on any CRK I have ever had. The ONLY thing I ever use the 30 Degree side for is paring knives, fillet knives, and other kitchen knives where the blades are super thin.

When knives are really dull, I will use the brown medium stones. Once it gets a good edge, I go to the white fine stones to finish the job. For a mirror polish, you will need the Ultra Fine stones. I have them and they will indeed put a mirror polish on your edge. I dont use them too often as I dont need a mirror edge for an edc sebenza, but thats just me.....lol. Sometimes though, I will break them out for the heck of it though.

I should do a video as I have been asked to in the past. I have a good digital camera now, just gotta find my little tripod and then we are good to go.
 
Dshunt---

Do yourself a favor amd check out jdavis882 on YouTube. He has a couple veer helpful videos regarding the sharpmaker tips and tricks. The sharpmaker is more of a tool to keep your blades sharp---- not for reprofiling. You can obtain the course diamond stones for the SM to aid in reprofiling but it takes a while if major reprofiling is desired or needed. The ultra fine stones can create a mirror polished back bevel if you progress through the grits properly---course,medium, fine, ultra fine and then strop. A great and affordable strop is the knives plus strop block. It comes pre loaded with the green compound amd it's about $20.

The best trick i can tell you for the SM is use a sharpie to make sure you are getting the edge. you also need a magnifying glass or loupe to see what you are doing to the edge.

Hope some of that helps. I also have a KME sharpening setup which in use for major reprofiling which I have been very happy with.

An edge I have personally done on my sharpmaker--- this mirror edge was for show. I usual just use the medium stones and then strop, creating a sharp toothy hair popping edge.
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Another tip I will add is the Sharpie trick. Especially for when I said to slightly tilt the blade towards the end. Sharpie the whole blade edge and With a couple of light strokes, you will see immediately where the rods are touching on your particular blade and when to start tilting.

I have reprofiled blade edges on the sharpmaker. I did a full reprofile on an Strider SMF awhile back. It took a couple of hours using the brown stones only, but was absolutely beautiful when done.

I have put edges on my knives just like " rg02 ", its just takes time and know how is all. All which we gladly share.
 
Cool, thanks you guys for all the good info! Definitely helpful. Got my Starbenza a couple weeks ago and have just been touching it up on the cardboard strop to keep it sharp because I didn't want to mess up the edge until I got some more knowledge on sharpening and until I got some more practice on the sharpmaker with an old beater knife. All this info has definitely been helpful, and I definitely need to order a leather strop on a block. I guess practice, practice, practice on the sharpmaker. Definitely need to learn how to sharpen free hand too! They should have classes on sharpening! Lol... And I really like the sharpening job on that Spyderco! Looks awesome! Thanks again everyone!:thumbup:
 
I use a Sharpmaker exclusively on my Sebenzas and Nyala (@40deg). I have found that the first time you use it on a CRK it takes a bit of work to slightly reprofile the edge to be compatible with the Sharpmaker's angle. After that first time it seems pretty quick and easy. My BG42 small reg took ages to get sharp the first time--now it goes relatively easily. I only use the flats. I do 50 strokes on each side and then check the edge. Then repeat as needed. If the knife is really dull or the edge is damaged I start with the coarse rods. If it's slightly dull I start with the medium rods. Most of my routine sharpening is done with just the fine and UF rods, as I like to touch the knives I'm using up weekly, or when they just start to lost that shaving sharp edge. I"ll skip the UF rods sometimes, especially if I don't have time--the fine rods get the knife very, very sharp.
 
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Like rg02 said. Brown sharpmaker rods and stropping. Works best for my bg42 Sebenza. Nice toothy edge that bites. Bite is what I want in a blade. I use the 30 slots.
 
Same here. Brown stones o the 40 degree on nearly every knife I own. Sharp yet toothy. Once I got it right on the seb, it easily touches up when I need it.
 
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