Sharpening a Sebenza

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Krissig12

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Sep 11, 2013
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Hey guys, so my small 21 came in a week or two ago, and I've been loving it so far.....


The only problem I've had with it is sharpening. It came pretty dull from CRK, so I went ahead and sharpened it.......or so I thought. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get it sharp. I went online and found a video explaining why this was, and I concluded that the problem could only be resolved by keeping at it until something happened. I started on a 2000 grit corundum stone that cuts like CRAZY. I'm not sure if it's the type of abrasive, or if the company lied on the grit, but it can reprofile s110v like it was 440c:eek:

So as you'd imaging, it only took a few minutes for me to establish a new bevel and apex the edge, after which I moved up in the grits and finished with a nice stropping. The problem was that the part of the edge from the belly forward was Butter knife dull! I could not for the life of me figure out how to get it sharp.

I've since sharpened the knife a couple more times, and each time I do it the tip area is still extremely dull afterwards, even though everything else will shave reasonably well. In fact the part of the edge closest to the handle consistently comes out the sharpest.

So my question to you guys is what tips and tricks are there for sharpening small sebs? How should I draw it across the stone to get the whole edge? And if I were to use my sharpmaker instead, what kind of stroke would allow me to hit the whole length of the edge? Curving down, or drawing straight back as it glides down the rod? Maybe increasing the angle when I get to the tip?

And one more thing..... Is there anything I need to know about sharpening CRKs s35? Because every time I screw up even a LITTLE bit, I essentially have to restart from the beginning because there will be a big old microbevel on the edge..... Is this a result of the softness? Should I ease up on the pressure to compensate? I'm not using a lot as it is, but I could definately go lighter.
 
Hey Krissig. Few things. Definitely lighten up on the pressure. This is a common issue that people encounter sharpening the Sebenza. The same issue will occur even after using the SM for a few sharpenings. The belly to the tip is a little bit wider than the cutting edge. Angle out a little wider for this section and you'll be able to apex that part of the edge as well as the rest of it.

In my limited experience, I've found that the SM 40 inclusive setting is not a perfect match to the edge. It is close but it lines right up with the apex of the edge and not necessarily all the way up the bevel. If you look at the scratch pattern the SM puts on a factory edge, you'll see that you're pretty much hitting the edge enough to micro bevel it. Part of this has to do with the CRK factory edge on the Sebenza 21 being semi convex. Convex nature also has to do with the belly to tip being slightly wider as well.

I'm basing this off of 4 Sebenzas I've had so my sample size isn't nearly enough to be considered undeniable so I'd like to hear what some of the more experienced owners have to say.

Hope this helps a little!
 
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I push-sharpen mine on the Sharpmaker starting about 1/8 back from the tip so as not to round it off.

You can use the Sharpie method also, mark the bevel (only) with it so you can see where you are not angling the blade out far enough to have it engage the rod correctly.

I always push sharpen with a Sharpmaker, gives me more control and I don't risk losing my fine point by rounding it off.
 
The CRK's I've recieved just needed a few swipes on ceramic and they're good to go. I like the spyderco "double stuff", it's much better than the sharpmaker IMO. You can adjust your angles much easier since you're not limited to 30 or 40 degree.
 
I've had the same problem and the only thing I can say is stay with it. Not very helpful but I eventually got it. I use the Lansky system so I ended up actually sharpening in two separate sections.
 
Are you sure the belly to tip portion is fully apexed? The blade is thicker there, and it may take a little more work. On the Sebenzas I've seen, the Sharpmaker would handle the straight portion of the blade fine, but a no go for the belly to tip portion unless you reprofile or tilt the knife.
 
The sharpmaker will handle any sebenza you can throw at it. The straight part is simple by just swiping it normally. The belly to tip, you must slightly tilt the blade away from it to get that area. I have been using this type of sharpener for 30 years. To keep from rounding the tip, stop the knife on the flat of the stone. I mainly use the flats rather than the corners. I highly recommend the sharpie method for those wanting to swipe lightly to get the feel of it. Swipe lightly and let the stones do the work.
 
This has been my experience as well. I just got an Edge Pro and reprofiled my small 21 and like it Much better with a consistent apex. I have 2 Damascus small 21s with the same belly to tip issues and am strongly contemplating doing them as well. The "shaving sharp" edge from CRK does not seem to be so. I also have a Sharpmaker that I have used for years with little success on that portion of the blade. I am debating if there is a good reason to stay with the factory grind.
 
I'd go ahead and get back to your stones. The SM is bad at reprofiling, even with the diamond rods. Don't know what kind of diamonds they're loaded with but they don't remove much steel considering...

Knowing what you do, the corundum should make quick work of this all.
 
I have reprofiled with the sharpmaker. I had an smf that I made the regular 20 degrees I stead of the goofy angle strider uses. I just used the brown rods. Took some time. It came out perfect.
 
nyefmaker said:
I have reprofiled with the sharpmaker. I had an smf that I made the regular 20 degrees I stead of the goofy angle strider uses. I just used the brown rods. Took some time. It came out perfect.
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Yeah, it will work, but right tool for the right job. He's got a better coarse stone on hand and experience freehanding his edges. The SM is a good sharpener but better suited for finishing. Had mine 10 years, still use it sometimes.
 
Thanks for all the help guys!

I knew there was something funky going on with the tip to belly area.....

I'll make sure to lighten up on the pressure as well
 
Zeta33 said:
Yeah, it will work, but right tool for the right job. He's got a better coarse stone on hand and experience freehanding his edges. The SM is a good sharpener but better suited for finishing. Had mine 10 years, still use it sometimes.
Click to expand...

Everyone has their own method. I like to do it slowly that way I can monitor it. Can't put the steel back on once it's gone.
 
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Alright, so I finally got around to reprofiling the small.

It wasn't easy, but I managed to fully apex the majority of the edge and polish it up to like 1200 grit, followed by a stropping. All but the very forward part of the edge was easily shaving when I finished.

I was paying super close attention to keeping my angle consistent this time around. I feel like it's especially important with the seb since the steels a little softer.

I love looking at the edge and not seeing any glinting near the apex:thumbup::)

Thanks for all the tips and info guys. You really helped this CRK newbie out!
 
I still have the doubt if I have to use 30 or 40 degrees in the Sharpmaker to sharpen my small 21, can you guys clarify this for me please? :o
 
simbad said:
I still have the doubt if I have to use 30 or 40 degrees in the Sharpmaker to sharpen my small 21, can you guys clarify this for me please? :o
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40 degrees on the SM will match up to the factory edge.
 
Use the sharpie method. Run a sharpie pen along the edge to color the bevel then check the edge as you sharpen to see if you're removing all the sharpie, that way you can actually SEE if you've apexed the edge or if you need to adjust your angle.
 
I found an old thread here where Chris Reeve suggested using the Sharpmaker alternating with stropping on cardboard and then going back to the white stones; 20 passes on stone, 20 on cardboard, 20 on stones. Light pressure and watching the tip as suggested in the threads above. It works for me. I had been tempted to use my wicked edge but see no reason with the method above.
Once sharp all they need is an occasional stropping.
 
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After I started using the sharpmaker the way this guy is showing us I really didn't have any trouble getting the clip point super sharp, tip and all, ever again. Stropping, after sharpening and at regular basis with heavy use, also helps with this "issue".

The interesting part starts at 2.40.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FemY...IiS4ccobxdDeRA
 
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