Sharpening a Yo2 flat on the stone

T

Threethreethree

Joined
May 30, 2013
Messages
117
Yo there

I'm thinking about reprofiling my Yo2 laid flat to the stone as a straight razor using the shoulder as a guide.
My coarsest quality stone is a coarse DMT duosharp, do you think it will be sufficient ?
The edge is already quite thinned and it looks like i wont have to remove that much stock but im a little worried about the edge being a little bellied, it was like that from factory, and remained likewise after a reprofiling as i didnt really wanted to true the edge by grinding perpendicularly...
What do you think ?

I'm also still thinking about getting a muddy waterstone for maintening that kind of wide bevels as i heard they excelled at that, which one should i get, preferably a not so gouge-prone one, 1000 grit for basic maintenance, and of course being able to cut S30V and S90V ?
I guess some will say i should get a DMT XXC instead but i wouldnt use that stone a lot except for that project and i want to try a good muddy waterstone since a long time.
 
good luck with the waterstone on s30v, it is tough and above a toothy edge most try and stay around the 400 grit dia stones.
 
I wouldn't , it would be a very steep angle and require significant work to reach the edge of the edge , not to mention you would ruin the aesthetics of the spine. Heres a customers I did.





S30v is like butta with the right tools.
 
What's the angle on that Yo2 ?
The bevels look tiny compared to mine which is around 30 maybe a wee lower but slightly convexed, it worth noting that when i reprofiled it i put tape on the shoulders and it was slightly scraped., i didnt used that knife much and i have been conservative on the burr i raised.
Im a little surprised to hear about your disaproval, the performance knock will be there and it is stout blade so with a micro bevel that shouldnt be too fragile for my uses.
I laid the knife flush on a flat surface and i really dont have muchos to remove to contact the very edge.
Esthetically i dont think the flattened shoulders are ugly that's the method i use(with the edge of a medium rod) on the right side of serrated edges if the grind is parallel to the bevel just like on the delica, endura (unlike the Spot obviously).
 
On a flat ground blade, laying it flat on a stone would produce and extremely shallow bevel angle. But the Yojimbo 2 is a pretty thick hollow grind. I'm not sure what angle you'll end up at, but I'd think you'd hit the edge fairly quickly after grinding down the shoulder a bit.

I'm wondering what you're expecting out of this. If it's just ease of sharpening (using the shoulder as a guide), I guess I get it. If you're looking to thin the overall profile of the blade, that seems like it would take forever since the upper transition from hollow to flat is SO thick. I think the Yojimbo 2 cuts pretty well, though obviously it wedges some due to it's thick profile. The point is just scary pointy though! It's very, very useful on things like opening packages.

Brian.
 
Well i want to do it that way because that's gonna be easy pie maintenance wise and just knocking off the shoulders yield a pretty noticeable reduction of wedging effect.
Im not expecting to significantly thin out the blade that way as i know it'll be a real chore but as i already 'scandi-vexed both a delica and endura flat saber i think it is worthy to try.
 
On a blade like that you might get a respectable result by simply grinding down the flat region above the primary grind to something thinner. I realize it will bring the shoulder down more into the primary, but overall thickness will be reduced and you won't have to grind off so much material.
If the hollow grind is not too aggressive, you might have an easier time turning it into a full convex. Going from shoulder to edge, you will hit the edge before you remove a lot off the shoulder (guessing), and then will have to concentrate a lot of effort reducing the shoulder back toward the spine without grinding off any more of the edge.

Is a lot of work by hand. Most of the initial flattening could be done on a hardware store combination silicon carbide stone used with oil. If you want a muddy stone to set the geometry, this will be reasonably fast and you won''t be dishing a nice waterstone. After that, there are a lot of waterstone intended for use with tougher steels, but will cost a bit as well.

I picked up a diamond jointer stone at approx 3micron for finishing off the high Vanadium content steels, and do all the lower work with silicon carbide. The jointer stone works very similar to a waterstone, but is used with oil, or dry until it loads up.
 
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