Sharpening advice + grind and angle recs for a boy's axe?

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Sep 27, 2011
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Hi all,

Looking for some advice on grind, profile, edge angle on an old wetterlings boys axe that I'm restoring to use as my new bush axe for camping and canoe trips.

A little more info on the axe and its intended use: 2 1/4 lb head, 24" handle. It will be a do-it-all, so will see duty chopping down standing dead trees around 6-10" diameter, limbing, cutting small diameter green trees for shelter-building, and splitting firewood. I'd also like to fiddle with carving and finer work, but that's very much a secondary use. Mix of hardwoods and softwoods like maple, oak, spruce, and pine.

I'd like an edge I can easily touch up and service in the field.

For sharpening, I have access to a range of diamond and waterstones, a puck, strops, and a worksharp with blade grinding attachment. I can get my knives hair-popping sharp, but I'll admit that I've never been that happy with my axe edges.

If you have suggestions for grind and angles, and if you've comes across any good sharpening vids or tutorials that have made a difference in how you sharpen your axes, please chime in!
 
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I would not sharpen an axe without wearing gloves and not before the haft was installed. Then I'll rough it in with a file and then stand it
on the end of it's haft with the head up with face pointing away and take a stone to it, rubbing with the coarse then on to the fine. Be sure
to remove the burr. DM
 
I would not sharpen an axe without wearing gloves and not before the haft was installed. Then I'll rough it in with a file and then stand it
on the end of it's haft with the head up with face pointing away and take a stone to it, rubbing with the coarse then on to the fine. Be sure
to remove the burr. DM

David, I understand the gloves. I personally like to stick the head in a vise to work on it before wedging it.
 
Sharpen to the gauge.
Sharpening%20gauge.jpg


For a boys axe I'll end up at about 20° measured 1/2" back from the edge and then rolling to about 25° at the edge. You can go a little thinner if you're mostly using it for bushcraft not chopping or splitting (things you may or may not do at camp).

If your axe has a high centerline (aka convex cheeks) then following the gauge will give you a grind shaped like a banana or half banana depending on the thickness of the cheeks.

Banana%20grind.jpg

2-Banana%20grind.jpg

3-Banana%20grind.jpg


I like to leave the edge angle a little thicker at the heel and toe because these areas are the most easily damaged.
 
You guys are awesome. Thanks for the quick replies. A lot to digest. Square_Peg, thank for the angle advice and the idea on the guide.
 
I would not sharpen an axe without wearing gloves and not before the haft was installed. Then I'll rough it in with a file and then stand it
on the end of it's haft with the head up with face pointing away and take a stone to it, rubbing with the coarse then on to the fine. Be sure
to remove the burr. DM

I’m laughing a bit at the gloves comment, only because Old Axeman said he didn’t care for gloves and only wore them in that movie because he was told to. Because I worked with sheet metal, I got to know where the sharp edges were and how to avoid them, so I don’t usually wear gloves. I have a strong sense that I may live to question that decision one day!
 
At first I didn't wear gloves. But here I was pushing a file into a sharp edge. Then one day I went too far and I wore tape for that mistake 1 week. When I use the stones my hands are a little less in danger but now the axe is getting very sharp. So, I don't risk it. You're free to go about it how ever you want. Here's a photo of the manner I take the stone to the ax. DM
axeS.jpg
 
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A 20* edge on a ax I'll curl quick. I try to set mine at 22-24*. This gives me a longer lasting edge. Plus, I've noticed it's always the top 1/3 of the edge (toe) that is in need of sharpening after a day of chopping and splitting. DM
 
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