Is pushing and pulling a blade across a stone in a motion parallel to the spine rather than perpendicular a viable method of sharpening? Please read on.
So my mom has a pretty nice ham slicer she bought I think at Goodwill. She paid about a buck. Not a full tang but a good handle, fit is good and very tight. I am sure the thing has never been sharpened and the edge was a mess...many deep nicks and what I would call gouges. Hollow ground. The blade on this is about 12" long and flexible.
I read, in the context of scandinavian grind sharpening about pushing and pulling the knive along the edge...moving the knive on the stone parallel to the spine rather than perpendicular. Well this worked great! I used a DMT X-Course Dia-Sharp and I was able to maintain really strict control over the bevel (didn't measure but it is acute). Raised one heck of a burr. Did both sides like that then moved down to Fine and did a little work there.
Then I switched over to the traditional method of making a slicing motion on the stone on both Fine and X-Fine. Finished up on a bench strop with green compound and then plain leather.
I am pretty sure I could shave with this thing.
Now I understand that kind of motion is going to be very hard on stones. But my diamond plates have a tool section that I won't use much and I think they held up fine. Clearly one would choose their stone carefully here...Japanese waterstones need not apply I should think.
Comment if you care to.
Thanks.
So my mom has a pretty nice ham slicer she bought I think at Goodwill. She paid about a buck. Not a full tang but a good handle, fit is good and very tight. I am sure the thing has never been sharpened and the edge was a mess...many deep nicks and what I would call gouges. Hollow ground. The blade on this is about 12" long and flexible.
I read, in the context of scandinavian grind sharpening about pushing and pulling the knive along the edge...moving the knive on the stone parallel to the spine rather than perpendicular. Well this worked great! I used a DMT X-Course Dia-Sharp and I was able to maintain really strict control over the bevel (didn't measure but it is acute). Raised one heck of a burr. Did both sides like that then moved down to Fine and did a little work there.
Then I switched over to the traditional method of making a slicing motion on the stone on both Fine and X-Fine. Finished up on a bench strop with green compound and then plain leather.
I am pretty sure I could shave with this thing.
Now I understand that kind of motion is going to be very hard on stones. But my diamond plates have a tool section that I won't use much and I think they held up fine. Clearly one would choose their stone carefully here...Japanese waterstones need not apply I should think.
Comment if you care to.
Thanks.
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