Sharpening an AUS 4A CRKT M16-14Z

U

ubuwalker31

Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Messages
55
I have been able to get super keen edges on other knives using my DMT Magna guide system (x-coarse, coarse, fine, x-fine).

However, this m16 won't hold a super sharp edge. Is there a special angle or method to sharpen this knife? Can I reprofile the original or better grind using the stones, and if so, how? What is the best resharpening angle for the knife. Thanks!
 
Its the steel itself. AUS4 is pretty low allow stuff, and also CRKT tends to run their material soft. It may just not take the edge you want it to.
 
Granted that it is a given that AUS 4 is soft, but it used to be razor sharp out of the box, and there has to be a way to get it better. So any advice about angles to sharpen on, etc are appreciated.
 
Is it a chisel grind ? Aus 4 is soft steel , it should take a nice sharp edge but will most likely lose it very quickly.
 
According to cutleryscience:

"The initial edge is hollow ground which raises the ease of sharpening because the abrasive just hits the top and very final part of the edge and thus it is sharpened very quickly, the edge is also ground evenly which further raises ease of sharpening. The biggest problems are that the steel tends to be difficult to form a crisp edge as tends to be common for soft stainless, and the chisel grind makes this difficult assuming the back is honed flat and not beveled to make the edge v-ground. "

The page (now inactive) says something about the grit of the sharpener...but the picture is missing...
 
'4 isnt gonna hold an edge very well FWIW regrdless of reprofiling/etc, its too soft.

ya should be able to get it plenty sharp though, it just wont hold it long with use.

the only time i have sharpened a CRKT M16 it was a spear point ti model and IIRC i used my spyderco sharpmaker and it worked fine, those have a lot better steel than '4 though, IIRC it was '8.
 
use a sharpie and darken the edge of the blade. then while you are sharpening you will be able to see whether you are getting to the actual edge. with aus-4 and 420J2 blades I have found using a lower angle like 20 degrees inclusive for the bevel and then setting a microbevel at a slightly higher angle, say 25 or 30 degrees inclusive works. I have found that soft steels like aus-4 and 420J2 tend to burr so maybe stropping the knife after sharpening may break off the wire edge. you may be getting the knife sharp but the "fin" formed by the burr may be folded giving the impression that the knife is dull. the microbevel should cut that "fin" off and if not the stropping should. good luck
 
Pete1977 said:
use a sharpie and darken the edge of the blade. then while you are sharpening you will be able to see whether you are getting to the actual edge. with aus-4 and 420J2 blades I have found using a lower angle like 20 degrees inclusive for the bevel and then setting a microbevel at a slightly higher angle, say 25 or 30 degrees inclusive works. I have found that soft steels like aus-4 and 420J2 tend to burr so maybe stropping the knife after sharpening may break off the wire edge. you may be getting the knife sharp but the "fin" formed by the burr may be folded giving the impression that the knife is dull. the microbevel should cut that "fin" off and if not the stropping should. good luck
Click to expand...
Concur.
 
AUS4 will take a perfectly good edge. It won't keep the edge as long as a harder alloy but you should be able to sharpen it as effectively as any other steel. The problem is probably with your methodology or technique, not with the steel iteslf.

Since it is a softer alloy it does make sense to choose a more obtuse bevel angle than you would choose for a harder steel. I would think 20 to 25 degrees would be good for most applications.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top