David
The Mini Canadian is A2
Hand sharpened now at I presume 22 degrees, nicely even both sides
So what you are suggesting is I knock off the shoulders of the v-grind by stropping on 600-1000 grit paper
Then go to black compound?
If you're happy with the edge angle as it is, taking down the shoulders only would be the simplest way to transition into the convex. What grit you use to start that, is up to you. If you find the 600-1000 grit is taking too long (and you might), you can step to a lower grit like ~400/320. As you work, keep testing the edge by cutting paper or whatever; if you see the need to strop it, use whichever compound you think will do the job.
Can I 'strop' on 220 grit waterstone?
then on to 1000 grit?
If you want to try that, feel free to do so. I suggested starting on the sandpaper and strop, simply because the somewhat more forgiving surface will make shaping the convex easier. On stones, if one isn't comfortable with it, the convex may be a little irregular (flat spots, etc.). But, if you think you want to try it on stones, I would suggest testing the technique with a cheaper knife (or at least, one that you're not afraid to damage in the pursuit of learning

).
What wrist action do I need to have a rounding action to make a convex angle?
I wouldn't even worry about a deliberate wrist action/movement. Freehand sharpening of any kind is naturally going to produce some convex. This is also why I'd suggest using the strop/sandpaper method, because the slightly softer surface will introduce more convex with the same-as-always wrist motion/technique. If deliberately trying to 'shape' a convex on a hard stone, there's a greater risk of over-rounding it, and leaving the edge too thick and blunt. Again, if you want to experiment with this, do so with an 'expendable' blade first.
How do I know when I am hitting the edge and loosing the edge
Do I not go beyond my natural 22 degree angle that I sharpen a v grind?
Test how your existing edge is cutting beforehand, and keep checking/comparing cutting performance frequently as you work. If you're inadvertently hitting the edge, you'll definitely see the cutting performance changing. You could also mark the edge with a Sharpie, and
avoid scrubbing off the ink too close to the edge.
If I am using water stones can I push the blade starting at 22 degrees and not pull cut (strop)
Again, if you want to try a different method, use a different blade to see how it works for you.
And stropping with compound
I strop my scandi grinds flat with white compound
It brings them to very sharp
How do I use black compound on convex
Your choice of compound shouldn't be impacted by whether the edge is convexed or not. Use whichever compound you think will work best, based on your previous experiences with it.
Lots of questions
Just I do not have an intuative sense of how to convex, given I have been free hand sharpeninng v-grinds for 50 years....lol
Thanks
I suspect you have more of a sense of it than you might think. That's what I finally realized, after I'd been refining my stropping technique for a while. The technique is there. I literally just picked up a piece of sandpaper one day, laid it across my strop block, and did the same 'stropping' I'd always been doing. And just like that, I was convexing my blade. It literally can be that simple, as long as one doesn't overthink it and get intimidated by the process. It's a lot, lot simpler than most people realize, if they haven't tried it before.
David