Sharpening Assistance- Do I have a micro bevel???

R

RWT

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Mar 15, 2011
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Sharpening Assistance- Do I have a micro bevel???
I just received this in the mail today. A used Busse Boss Jack, I then ran it through my normal "is it sharp test" of cutting 5/8 rope. No luck, it would not make it through in a single pass of the blade. So I hit it with the worksharp for 20 total passes on the red 220 belt- this time it barely cut. I ran it through again, same result. I did notice there were no sparks at all when I ran it on the belt. All my other carbon steel blades always throw a visbile spark or two so I am wondering if I am actually hitting the edge? Please view the photos and let me know where or what I am doing incorrectly. All advice is appreciated. If I can't get it to sharpen up then it will go to a professional to reset whatever edge I screwed up. Next step is the sharpie on the edge. I am shooting for a basic convex @ 20 degres per side.
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You are just sharpening at a lower bevel angle than was previously set on the knife. Either raise your bevel angle or put in the effort to reprofile it to a narrower bevel.
 
I just ran the sharpie test and the marker is only coming off the blade in a few spots. How is that possible with a belt sander like the worksharp? My understanding is the belt conforms to the edge all the time. Does this have such a low bevel angle(meanign above 35 degress) that a 25 degree guide is still not catching the edge? If so how much effort is needed to reprofile and would I be better off without the 25 degree guide and using the worksharp free hand? I am still learnng here so bear with me.
 
You're not fully convexing the edge with the work sharp, the part that you think is a microbevel is actually just the normal v-edge that hasn't been convexed.
 
RWT said:
I just ran the sharpie test and the marker is only coming off the blade in a few spots. How is that possible with a belt sander like the worksharp? My understanding is the belt conforms to the edge all the time. Does this have such a low bevel angle(meanign above 35 degress) that a 25 degree guide is still not catching the edge? If so how much effort is needed to reprofile and would I be better off without the 25 degree guide and using the worksharp free hand? I am still learnng here so bear with me.
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From what I can see from the pictures the shoulders of the blade are just too large. As in the edge is really thick. Your worksharp is working fine, you just need to keep at it and remove more steel until it hits the edge.
 
I use my worksharp exclusively to sharpen all my blades... i have NEVER had any issue whatsoever with getting a razor edge.

not sure what is causing your problem
 
Javelin said:
From what I can see from the pictures the shoulders of the blade are just too large. As in the edge is really thick. Your worksharp is working fine, you just need to keep at it and remove more steel until it hits the edge.
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^This is what I see in the pics.

Edge angle looks really thick on this blade, and the shoulders are getting in the way. The contrast in finish (shiny/polished near the edge, satin behind it) shows where the belt is and isn't making contact. Might not even need the Sharpie, as the shine on the original bevel should serve as the indicator. Leave the angle guide on, and keep working at the shoulders. Taking the guide off and trying to 'freehand' to the edge will only even up the grind pattern to the edge, but probably won't help thin out the shoulders, which is what this blade really needs. It'll likely be a disappointing cutter if the convex is left that thick.
 
So after and hour on the worksharp with the green 60 grit belt and moving from the 25 angle guide to the 20 angle guide and cooling it in water every 5 passes. I finally have a decent edge on the flat portion of the blade from the ricasso forward. The area where the blade sweeps up is still very poor, however, I am making progress. I put it up for the night and will beat on it again tomorrow. I finally have it where when I make one pass with a sharpie covered blade the majority of the marker disappears. Now I am worried I may be taking to much off. We will see tomorrow. I want this thing sharp as it may replace my CABS as my go to blade.
 
Also, those pics are nowhere near clear or magnified enough to tell you anything about the edge... especially a micro-bevel.
 
A hour with 60 grit? Do you have any blade left?

I don't mean to offend but you probably took 20 years from your new busse with that kind of grinding if not completely deformed the grind itself.

Maybe some sandpaper and a mouse pad instead?
 
This blade is finally sharp enough for my needs. If it took 20years off the blade then so be it. This one was second hand and I am not concerned with how it looks or last. I doubt I will ever have any issues with the longevity of the blade and it has the no questions asked lifetime warranty. I know they don't have a "dumb a$$ clause" in their warranty so I am covered.
 
RWT said:
This blade is finally sharp enough for my needs. If it took 20years off the blade then so be it. This one was second hand and I am not concerned with how it looks or last. I doubt I will ever have any issues with the longevity of the blade and it has the no questions asked lifetime warranty. I know they don't have a "dumb a$$ clause" in their warranty so I am covered.
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I look at it this way. Even if you removed a lot of metal from it, to improve it, it would've likely been useless to you otherwise. With every blade I've re-bevelled and/or thinned out, they're much, much easier to maintain at razor-sharp beyond that, and much more worthwhile to use as well. Unless you just really beat the you-know-what out of it, I doubt you'll miss the extra metal you took from it.
 
Like David said, I also usually remove much metal thinning my blade out. Freehand though, so it takes a while.

Otherwise, the factory grind would be too thick for EDC. Am not going into chopping wood, or prying wood like Ankerson hard test, so for my use, thin is good :thumbup:

Think Kreined Busse :D
 
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She cuts great now, just lay the rope on the edge with some tension and it cuts clean through. I am thinking of replacing the slabs later. I am waiting on my CABS from the custom shop to see if my handle design will reduce hand fatigue. More pics to follow after I use it next weekend at the ranch.
 
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