Recommendation? Sharpening BD1N

Eli Chaps

Eli Chaps

Joined
Apr 20, 2018
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So for a few months I've been eyeballing the Yaxell Dragon Fire chef's knife (the gyuto style one) in BD1N at an advertised 63HRC.

I've watched deadboxhero's video on sharpening his chef's knife in this steel (thank you) but I don't do water stones. At least not yet. :D

So, is this alloy a viable SiC candidate or are diamonds the better way to go? I'm a stropper so what do you recommend? What's a good edge on this steel for kitchen use? I tend to like toothier in the kitchen.
 
I don't what to say I have never used Sic but may work for a toothy edge,you may look into the Venev stones I think they bigger stones now that will that steel fast and give you a lot of life from the stones.

Just look them up at gritomatic.
 
Eli Chaps said:
So for a few months I've been eyeballing the Yaxell Dragon Fire chef's knife (the gyuto style one) in BD1N at an advertised 63HRC.

I've watched deadboxhero's video on sharpening his chef's knife in this steel (thank you) but I don't do water stones. At least not yet. :D

So, is this alloy a viable SiC candidate or are diamonds the better way to go? I'm a stropper so what do you recommend? What's a good edge on this steel for kitchen use? I tend to like toothier in the kitchen.
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I have zero problem sharpening bd1 family of steels with regular ceramics.

Infact it is one of the steels I find extremely easy to put a razor sharp edge on very easily.
 
Lapedog said:
I have zero problem sharpening bd1 family of steels with regular ceramics.

Infact it is one of the steels I find extremely easy to put a razor sharp edge on very easily.
Click to expand...

Standard BD1 I can sharpen extremely easily but I've never played with BD1N and at this hardness. Would you put this in the same category?
 
Eli Chaps said:
what do you recommend?
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Edge Pro Apex with Shapton Glass WATER STONES (or the resin bonded diamond stones . . . hey . . . you will want one or the other sooner or later anyway).

. . . and do loose the strops. Pointless dirty things . . . IMO. :)

Well . . . you asked. :eek:
I like the BD-1, though I haven't ended up with many knives in it. Just the way it has worked out.
 
You don't need any special stones for bd1n. It's not filled with any Vanadium rich MC type carbides.

It is one of the Hallmarks of the steel, it's incredibly easy to sharpen and has excellent edge stability and is not brittle at 63hrc so it has a unique blend of properties. Thanks to the Nitrides in the steel

I'd recommend a alumina based stones since they polish better.

The idea with a kitchen knife is to have a blend of polish and tooth

A medium grit edge is most ideal so you can get very clean cuts in ingredients without damaging the cell structures yet still have the "bite" to keep from slipping in tomato, pepper and onion skin.


Look at stones in the 800-1500 range as a stopping place
 
Using an edge pro for kitchen knives is incredibly slow. (I own one for knife testing) The tiny width and length of those stones prolonges the time needed to cut the bevel. A wider 3" by 8" stone makes short work of a 8" chefs knife the free hand stuff is not as difficult as it looks just sharpie marker the edge and behind the edge with a big banding line mark. Click up the knife on a stone at roughly ~15° and sharpen, stop and look at whats making contact and adjust accordingly, making the bevel as consistant as possible until you burr each side then deburr after Overtime, you'll get a feel for things and it will be a much much faster process.

Check out buying an 800 grit king waterstone on Amazon for like $20
Fully soak it in water before use and keep it flat.
 
BD1 is a pretty easy steel to sharpen. I've used regular waterstones on it before and had no difficulty. Did a progression of a Naniwa 400, King 1000, and King 6000 which left me with a very nice polished edge with minimal fuss.
 
DeadboxHero said:
You don't need any special stones for bd1n. It's not filled with any Vanadium rich MC type carbides.

It is one of the Hallmarks of the steel, it's incredibly easy to sharpen and has excellent edge stability and is not brittle at 63hrc so it has a unique blend of properties. Thanks to the Nitrides in the steel

I'd recommend a alumina based stones since they polish better.

The idea with a kitchen knife is to have a blend of polish and tooth

A medium grit edge is most ideal so you can get very clean cuts in ingredients without damaging the cell structures yet still have the "bite" to keep from slipping in tomato, pepper and onion skin.


Look at stones in the 800-1500 range as a stopping place
Click to expand...

Thank you, much appreciate the input. I'll probably try finishing on a hard Arkansas to start. I really like the edges I get off that stone for kitchen use. A little stropping to crisp things up and it preforms very well on my other knives.
 
Eli Chaps said:
Thank you, much appreciate the input. I'll probably try finishing on a hard Arkansas to start. I really like the edges I get off that stone for kitchen use. A little stropping to crisp things up and it preforms very well on my other knives.
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Yea, if it gives your trouble on the hard Arkansas then jump to a king stone
 
BD1N is not to be confused with BD1 or BD1Z.

BD1N is unique since it's the only steel avalible that doesn't substitute Nitrogen for Carbon like lc200n and h1. The nitrogen is used to boost the performance with hard chromium nitrides that work like carbides but are finer and not as detrimental to the toughness, great egde stability (won't be as impact tough as 3v)

Bd1 is just a basic stainless, not bad but not amazing.

BD1Z is a carpenter formula that's a copy of AEBL and 13c26
 
Thanks everyone. I gave the factory edge a couple months to see how it and the steel held up. Then it was time to put my edge on it. Just got done.

Soft Arkansas - Black Arkansas - Strop.

Loving this stuff!!!

IMG_20180916_133926579_zpscoanfoxp_edit_1537131144129_zpsmcincomg.jpg
 
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