Sharpening broadheads .

K

Kevin the grey

Joined
Aug 26, 2005
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I have magnus two blade broadheads . I have made them shaving sharp . My poor nude forearm is a cause for levity at times . There seems to be a secondary bevel which is at a much more acute angle than that which I put on .
This bevel appears to be at about 10 degrees . ( 5 Degrees per side)

I may not be describing this perfectly so feel free to ask for clarification . Even If what I did was correct in itself it seems to me that this secondary bevel could use a touch of the stone as well . Kinda smooth off any oxidation or microscopic imperfections that build up in storage and handling .

What do you think ?
 
Kevin,

If you haven't, post this to the Axe discussion group--there's some complete broadhead specialists there.
 
Thanks watchful . I contacted the company which said my angle should be about five degrees less . To me the more acute the more fragile . It only has to work well once so I guess the sharper the better . I,ll post it on the axe forum . There are always things to learn .
 
Runningboar , I have grizzlies as backups . I shoot a lighter bow so the chisel tip is only used in emergencies . Good tough broadheads .
 
I really don't think you can destroy one of these heads, but they are a bitch to sharpen, they come in really bad shape from the factory as you know. I shot one into a cinder block wall one time, destroyed the arrow but a little sharpening and the head was fine. Chris

 
My poor nude forearm ....

What do you think ?
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I think they are sharp enough.:D
I shoot Snuffer three blade to put the biggest Fn hole I can in them.
53#s @29 1/2" cedars, three fletch 3" parabolics
Bear "B" mag riser

Left hand and in my right mind;)
 
Okay, I'm going to throw this out just because I like running my mouth and talking to you guys. What do you think about the color of arrows?

I paint mine screaming orange just because they are easy to find and the game can't see them coming anyways. I've always wondered about camouflage arrows. How many do you lose?
 
Coldwood said:
Okay, I'm going to throw this out just because I like running my mouth and talking to you guys. What do you think about the color of arrows?

I paint mine screaming orange just because they are easy to find and the game can't see them coming anyways. I've always wondered about camouflage arrows. How many do you lose?
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I personnally have planted entire forrests of Port Orford Cedar all over western WI 3D ranges:o But hunting I have lost none. I agree with you that the game doesn't see it coming and blaze orange is much easier to find.
As a side note I carry a couple of FluFlus with and at the witching our put my scents on the fletching and lob them off to the sides of me. Keeps the scent from being out to early or all night. And those pesky squirrels gotta watch it too:D
 
As a side note I carry a couple of FluFlus with and at the witching our put my scents on the fletching and lob them off to the sides of me. Keeps the scent from being out to early or all night. And those pesky squirrels gotta watch it too - mewolf1

I don't think I understand that...are you masking your own scent for the next day's return?
 
Those broadheads sound deadly Kevin. I figure if folks have shot animals with flint heads, and I've used cruddy old bits of soft stainless steel successfully, then a hit with one of your projectiles should really do the job.

One thing I do is to rub some butter or cooking oil over the heads and up the shaft for a few inches. I feel that this helps to lubricate everything and helps quite a bit with penetration. The guy that put me on to this idea talked about using vaseline, but I prefer to use food-related products when gathering meat to eat.

Of course the main thing is to get those arrows to land in the right spot. If you have any secrets in this regard please let me know about them.

Coldwood: My arrows generally stay the colour of the shoots I made them from, but I reckon bright colours or fletchings are a good idea. It takes a long time to make an arrow and it is frustrating to lose one. Camouflaged clothing can come in bright colours and it is claimed that many animals are colorblind anyway (not that I am convinced of that). Didn't I read somewhere that it isn't the colors that spook the animals as much as the reflective quality of the pigment? (Something about UV reflection maybe?). Maybe somebody else has some better knowledge of this.
 
U:V: brighteners are a definite no-no . I,m not too much up on them in paints . In laundry soap it will make even your camo have a sheen or glow to it . You don,t see it a tenth as well as the deer sees it .

I wash my clothes I hunt in in plain water or in a soap that has no U:V: brighteners in it .

Coote ? Thanks for the lubrication tip . Proabably help the edge from dulling due to oxidation as well .
 
This is the best traditional archery site I have found. I have a # 45 Martin Dreamcatcher recurve, but this place is where I get my accessories. Very extensive product line.

They have sharpners and blade coating materials to keep oxidation off...

http://www.3riversarchery.com/
 
I love mangus 2 blade heads . Used them for years shot a few deer that never knew they were hit, just kept on feeding.

Just switched to their Stingers, still cut on contact but with bleeders.

12 more days.......
 
Coldwood said:
As a side note I carry a couple of FluFlus with and at the witching our put my scents on the fletching and lob them off to the sides of me. Keeps the scent from being out to early or all night. And those pesky squirrels gotta watch it too - mewolf1

I don't think I understand that...are you masking your own scent for the next day's return?
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Click to expand...

No, during the rut I spray on some estrus scent(on the fluflu fletching) and shoot them out to the side ten or fifteen yards as opposed to carrying tampons or some such, then pull them when I get down. I don't use much scent usually,(best scent is noe scent)but during the rut I like to try to draw attention away from me. As with drip bottles and scent drags the scent is there all night for the "Drop Tine buck" to sniff at midnight:eek: when I'm not there. It too is more realistic to my way of thinking (trying to get into the deers head) that theres a doe I've never smelled before, I gotta check it out.
Kind of a " now shes there, and now shes not to simulate movment. I use it later in the eve,but only during the rut when the bucks lay caution to the wind:thumbup: Yes it has worked:D
 
I certainly understand the importance of good arrows and good sharp broadheads. I personally make my arrows out of hardware store dowels, although I do know that Port Orford Cedar is the preferred arrow stock. But I like the idea of primitive arrows with flint heads, and also what Coote said about making heads out of bits of stainless steel. I once experimented with forging heads out of steel brake line tubing. Flatten them, sharpen them and glue them on the stick. In an emergency, you could probably do the same thing with leftover copper gas line tubing. Might not be good for taking a deer, but certainly for small game. Just thought I would throw that out for conversation.
 
People used to take the copper off the bottom of pots and roll/hammer it into a cone shaped bodkin point .

Soft metal turned into a nice pointy hunting head .
 
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