Sharpening Busse-kin knives

CR33

CR33

Joined
Jan 26, 2011
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1,135
Hey guys... :confused: I am by no means an expert, so i am just trying to learn a little more about sharpening. Can you just let me know what you believe to be the best method of sharpening your Busse-kin blades (or products you use) and what tools you use in the process-whether it be a specific stone or auto tools. I typically use a cheap stone myself, but I am considering upgrading-based on what you folks use-and I'd consider myself a novice anyway for the record. There never is a shortage of opinions... so let me know what you think? Thanks in advance for any feedback gents.
Craig
 
i put some wicked convex edges on anything sent to me with a belt sander and finish the edge off on my slotted paper wheel. i have a sar 5 that i'm getting ready to work on soon.
 
because of the hardness of the steel and the small grain size, it is going to take alot of tedious time to accomplish. I chose to forgo diamond stones for wet-dry sandpaper, starting with 220 grit and working up to 2000. It took a LONG time, somewhere between 15 and 20 hours, but it was worth it-I haven't sharpened it in the few months since then and it still slices paper. I wrapped 4x4 inch squares of wet-dry around a 1x4 arkansas stone to give it a hard flat surface for creating a flatter grind when freehand sharpening. Again, tedious, but the results are worth it if you stick it out and you're diligent.
 
Yep. No matter what, SR101 is hard stuff. Great for holding up for a long long time.

I'm a convex-or-Edge-Pro sorta guy. Not sure what I'll put on my RMD. Still thinking about it.
 
Thnk you guys... I guess to that point Dennis, what are some of the things you or someone might do to a traditional RMD. I see there are a lot of variations out there whether it be from the swamp itself or by typical users. variations:( sharpened spine, convex, choil mods, satin finishing etc) and I am sure there are a lot more I just don't know about. Not to get off topic, but what are some mods you want done to the reliable RMD.
Craig
 
I just want to clean up the edge as needed. The one I'm going to "work on" will be in today. If it's a new "signed by Garth" sharpened RMD, I won't even touch it. If it's the historical slightly-rough edge - esp. if it's uneven, I'll work on it. Then it's either "do I convex it or Edge Pro it." I'm not sure at this point. The Edge Pro is nice. Convex seem to be sharper. But it's a pain to do the first time. I likely won't be able to do it by hand - I'll get sick of it and bust out the belt sander. And that'll lead to dings in teh finish and handle, I'm sure.

I'll know more tonight. :)

Sharpening the swedge is a no-no in MA - no double-edged knives. Besides, I'm not stabbing many things.

I try to keep SR101 coated. It seems when the coating wears off naturally, the steel underneath is a bit less stain/rust prone.

We shall see.
 
I rebeveled my RMD with a Sharpmaker and diamond rods.

I don't recommend it. Got good results, but only because I refused to give up. It nearly drove me crackers. We're talking many thousands of strokes, over a period of two weeks or so...

Between the RMD and the Warden (both got the same 30 inclusive primary bevel) I smoothed out those diamond rods pretty good.
 
Great I hope the Rodent Solution I just ordered will be able to be sharpened on a Sharpmaker or else I am in trouble.
 
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