Sharpening catastrophe with a sng.

T

Torx

BANNED
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
9
I have a Strider SNG and It chipped, so I needed to sharpen it. I was using my Spyderco Sharp maker on the setting of 40 degrees. the strider is 23.5 on each side, according to the Faq. so I went with the 40 degrees on the sharp maker. After alot of hours of sharpening I finally worked the Back Bevel down to 40 degrees total and 20 on each side. It took quite a few hours.

But it seems now that the edge is very brittle, almost wavy when looking down on it when the edge is looking up at me. It also happens that the Back Bevel is huge, it is about 3x the size that it was when I first got the knife, is this normal, Ive never sharped a knife that needed alot of work done on it.

Should I just send it back and ask them to sharpen it at 40 degrees or 20 degrees each side, or deal with it.


Thank you.
 
T.K.C. said:
I would send it back to Strider.
Click to expand...

do you know if they will grind at a angle per my request, the 24 degrees is a tad obtuse for the sharpmaker, if they just regrind back down to the 24 degrees I will be loosing alot of steel on my knife for nothing.
 
Torx said:
It also happens that the Back Bevel is huge, it is about 3x the size that it was when I first got the knife, is this normal, Ive never sharped a knife that needed alot of work done on it.
Click to expand...

This is normal in my experience anyway. Maybe not quite 3x but I expect a great increase in the visible bevel when reprofiling. Also (and this is entirely based on my experience which does NOT include Strider knives which I am sure are made to exacting specifications and have excellent quality control so please don't flame me) sometimes the nominal sharpening angle (eg the quoted 23 deg) may be off on one or both sides, if it was shorter it would make your new bevel look even longer, comparatively.
 
Dakki said:
This is normal in my experience anyway. Maybe not quite 3x but I expect a great increase in the visible bevel when reprofiling. Also (and this is entirely based on my experience which does NOT include Strider knives which I am sure are made to exacting specifications and have excellent quality control so please don't flame me) sometimes the nominal sharpening angle (eg the quoted 23 deg) may be off on one or both sides, if it was shorter it would make your new bevel look even longer, comparatively.
Click to expand...

ok thats good to know,I do have quite a few knives, but most are from production brands such as Spyderco, BM and the rest, and well they come with angles that compliment the sharpmaker.
 
Well, considering your problem i would try to talk to the company directly, if they will do as you wish. If not, think again.

Considering the sharpmaker, you would have been around much sooner with the right equipment. Really think about getting some gritty stones. It eases reprofiling and all that. The longer it takes, to reprofile an edge, the more is the possibility to make a mistake.

Your wavy edge may be a remaining burr, coming from the ceramic corners.

The abrasion of the finer ceramic is low consider its hardness, a finer edge may deform, if pushed to hard against the ceramic at that little point of the corner. The ultra fine rods do this pretty easy.

That´s why i prefer the little coarser rods from other manufacturers.
 
No, I do not know if they will grind at an angle per your request. Call them and ask them.
 
Most knives are really lopsided in the edge grinds. I have seen them at 30 on one side and ten on the other for example. When you grind the 30 to 20 it goes very wide. That is the likely problem here.

-Cliff
 
Blop said:
Well, considering your problem i would try to talk to the company directly, if they will do as you wish. If not, think again.

Considering the sharpmaker, you would have been around much sooner with the right equipment. Really think about getting some gritty stones. It eases reprofiling and all that. The longer it takes, to reprofile an edge, the more is the possibility to make a mistake.

Your wavy edge may be a remaining burr, coming from the ceramic corners.

The abrasion of the finer ceramic is low consider its hardness, a finer edge may deform, if pushed to hard against the ceramic at that little point of the corner. The ultra fine rods do this pretty easy.

That´s why i prefer the little coarser rods from other manufacturers.
Click to expand...

I have thought about the Diamond stones but they cost about 100 bucks. You can get them cheaper from other places, but like I said I have never had to really re profile a knife before.

are there any other alternative for the sharpamker.


I just used the brown stones and cleaned them frequently.
 
Here are some Pics of what I am talking about. Sorry of they are big, i wanted to show as much detail as possible.

1.JPG

2.JPG

3.JPG

4.JPG

5.JPG

6.JPG





Overall, the knife has been the best folder, I have ever used, just not the easiest to sharpen.
 
The edge bevel will get that big, as you are removing a lot of steel to set the new angle. As for the brittle wire edge, I've seen that 4 times before with S30V, and sent Cliff one of them. Is the Strider a new one without the BOS logo?
 
samhain73 said:
The edge bevel will get that big, as you are removing a lot of steel to set the new angle. As for the brittle wire edge, I've seen that 4 times before with S30V, and sent Cliff one of them. Is the Strider a new one without the BOS logo?
Click to expand...

yes sir, maybe 1 week old at the most.
 
So if I wanted to reprofile or rebevil the knife, what product should I look for, the SArpmaker diamond rods are nice but $100 is to much.

I can notice if I just keep sharpening the knife with the corner of the brown rods. the blade is getting shiner and sharper, but I have alot of work left.
 
Torx,
Sharpmakers are not the best for re-profiling, it is all to easy to round the edge and the tip. I prefer a guided system (I use one with diamond hones) to get a consistant bevel and then a paper wheel and leather strop to finish.
There are lots of options here, try a search for "sharpening" and do some reading before your next purchase.
BTW, the increase in bevel width is almost unavoidable as most manufacturers make their edges thick and use quite obtuse angles. The smaller the angle the greater the bevel width, so a small angle to get good cutting will give wide bevels. Note that small angles also increase the fragility of the edge.
Greg
 
Torx said:
So if I wanted to reprofile or rebevil the knife, what product should I look for, the SArpmaker diamond rods are nice but $100 is to much.

I can notice if I just keep sharpening the knife with the corner of the brown rods. the blade is getting shiner and sharper, but I have alot of work left.
Click to expand...

Buy stones and learn freehand or use clips to keep the angle.
 
Torx said:
I just used the brown stones and cleaned them frequently.
Click to expand...

You surely did, because otherweise they wouldn´t work.

I have reprofiled a knife of that kind in say half an hour using 200 grit sic stones.
 
Torx=Killerskill=banned.
 
For anyone in the future that has this problem:

My guess is that the problems arose from using the sharpmaker (in particular with fine(r) grit stones to do a major reprofile. Its a freehand technique and going at it that long is automatically produce errors, and reprofiling freehand is going to take some skill to avoid waviness.

Next time, reprofile with a Lansky or some other type of guided system with extra coarse stones. It will be much quicker, easier, and less prone to errors such as this.

Its a shame that guy lost his nerve back there, seems like a decent knut otherwise.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top