Sharpening Challenged....Questions about What to Use....

N

Nalapombu

Joined
Oct 26, 2001
Messages
303
Hey all,

I have been sharpening challenged for the longest time and I'd like to shed that title. I'd like to get some suggestions on 2 types of sharpeners. First a sharpener that you would use when you have plenty of time and are at your desk or table with a nice, steady platform. Then a sharpener that you can put in your pack, glovebox or in a tackle box. Something that you can grab and put a good edge on any of your knives and go on with your tasks.

I have one of the LANSKY kits with 3 stones. It works pretty well but I have trouble with larger blades. I don't know how I would fare if I had to sharpen something like a 5 or 6 inch fixed blade. I think that would be pretty tough using this kit. One thing I do like about it is that I can use it to put a decent edge on my 2 bladed broadheads like my Bear Razorheads from back in the day. Do any of you use this system on BIG blades with good results? If so, I'd like to get some pointers from you.

I also have one of those ACCUSHARP gadgets. It works pretty well I guess, but the problem I have with it is that after a few passes I will get that tiny "wire" edge that I can detect with my fingernail and then I'll try and get rid of it on that side by passing it through lightly and kinda tilting the knife so that edge will make more contact and then when I check it, that wire edge will be on the other side. I'll go back and forth like that until I can finally get rid of it. I guess I need to put together a strop with some leather and polishing compound.

I'd like some better options, especially for the quickie sharpener. Is there something better out there that gives better results without much headache?

With the larger more "permanent" type sharpener, I'd like to be as economical as I can. I can't drop $100 on a sharpening system. I'd like to, but I can't. Maybe I just need to learn to use the Lansky better.

What do you use that you really like?

Thanks for your time and any help you can give me.

Nalajr
 
I use a Lansky turnbox a lot. It's one of the v-stick sharpeners that comes with two sets of sticks.
 
I'm not sure how other members will feel about this, but I almost exclusively use a strop these days.

It's just a thick piece of leather with different grit compounds on each side. It's handheld and fits in an otterbox so I use it at my desk or on the go.

It's also designed so that you can rig it with the leather on top of the otterbox with a piece or sandpaper laid over the top of the leather, folded down into the otterbox, and then held in place by closing the otterbox over the ends. That way I can go coarser if I want.

The whole idea is that, as you're dragging the blade away from it's edge and along the strop, the leather "gives" a little and kind of hugs the edge, so that you don't need to get the bevel angle perfectly in order for it to work. It's a very forgiving method.

This is how to sharpen convex edged knives, but honestly I use this on my whole collection. It does slightly start to convex everything, but I'm fully okay with that. I prefer a convex edge.

Alright...I'm not sure if my description was a good one, but I tried! Spend a little time online exploring strops, especially on KSF.

I bought mine probably 4 years ago and I only use my sharpmaker when a knife needs serious work. Perhaps my favorite thing about the strop, though, is that if you keep up with it, you virtually never have to do an actual sharpen with stones. Any time I sense a knife losing it's razor edge, I give it maximum ten passes on each side of the strop and then I can shave with it again. It's pretty brilliant!

I, too, was once sharpeningly challenged but the strop changed everything! I think I paid 50 bucks for the whole set up, including sandpaper and otterbox, and I've never looked back!

Good luck, my friend.
 
I tried a lot of the gadget sharpeners but I continue to get a razor's edge just using a good old fashion sharpening stone. I also find this method therapeutic.
 
If I'm in the kitchen I just use the bottom of a coffee mug. Ceramic works great. Other times I just use an old Boy scout silica stone.

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I wouldn't use an Accusharp nor any other pull-through carbide sharpener on any blade I cared about. It sharpens by tearing steel away.

Your Lansky system is decent enough but there are better systems. I currently use a DMT Aligner system with diamond stones and a Spyderco Sharpmaker. I use the Sharpmaker the most, especially on kitchen knives and for EDC maintenance. The DMT is mostly for reprofiling and repair.

For large blades, like my 9" Becker BK9, I made my own cross-stick sharpener ...
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On a budget it is hard to go wrong with the Sharpmaker. It is very user friendly and you will learn the basics of maintaining a great edge on your knives. It is not the best for reprofiling though.
 
VermontEdge said:
I'm not sure how other members will feel about this, but I almost exclusively use a strop these days.

It's just a thick piece of leather with different grit compounds on each side. It's handheld and fits in an otterbox so I use it at my desk or on the go.

It's also designed so that you can rig it with the leather on top of the otterbox with a piece or sandpaper laid over the top of the leather, folded down into the otterbox, and then held in place by closing the otterbox over the ends. That way I can go coarser if I want.

The whole idea is that, as you're dragging the blade away from it's edge and along the strop, the leather "gives" a little and kind of hugs the edge, so that you don't need to get the bevel angle perfectly in order for it to work. It's a very forgiving method.

This is how to sharpen convex edged knives, but honestly I use this on my whole collection. It does slightly start to convex everything, but I'm fully okay with that. I prefer a convex edge.

Alright...I'm not sure if my description was a good one, but I tried! Spend a little time online exploring strops, especially on KSF.

I bought mine probably 4 years ago and I only use my sharpmaker when a knife needs serious work. Perhaps my favorite thing about the strop, though, is that if you keep up with it, you virtually never have to do an actual sharpen with stones. Any time I sense a knife losing it's razor edge, I give it maximum ten passes on each side of the strop and then I can shave with it again. It's pretty brilliant!

I, too, was once sharpeningly challenged but the strop changed everything! I think I paid 50 bucks for the whole set up, including sandpaper and otterbox, and I've never looked back!

Good luck, my friend.
Click to expand...

Exactly what he said. ^^^^^^

I'd never use a pull-through sharpener on a good blade, but that's just me.

As to your questions, IMO, in addition to a strop, an Arkansas stone (or similar) and a rod sharpener are the basics of sharpening. I have a couple of hard Arkansas stones, an EZ-lap diamond sharpener and an old Crock Stick rod a friend no longer wanted. Between the three of them I can reach my own sharpening limits very well. I use the stone at home and field carry the EZ-lap fine diamond rod and use it for the step between stone and strop when necessary.

When I sharpen I use the stone in the traditional way, dry, a little honing oil, whatever. I use the rod usually holding the knife blade up and scouring up and down the edge mindlessly. Eventually you get the feel, angle and pressure just right on each knife.

I do not own any sharpening 'systems' but I am familiar with them and have used them. Your Lansky is fine. I'd put my money toward leather and compound at t his point. Start stropping and continue familiarizing yourself with the Lansky.
 
The weak link on the sharpening systems is knife size. One needs to learn how to free hand sharpen as it might save your but some time. The bigger blades are best sharpened by stropping, especially the convex edges.

I think the electric knife sharpeners have their place, especially in the kitchen with low to moderately priced knives. They do take a fair amount of metal off, but all sharpeners take metal off. It is just a question of how much.
 
I agree, NOT to use the carbide pull through sharpener except in an absolute emergency, or if you have an edge that is completely boogered up... I have a couple Smith's pocket pals I keep around for on the run sharpening, but I never used the carbide V yet, I only used the ceramic side and the mini diamond rod (great for serrations).

The Smith's 3 in 1 isn't a bad bet for $20 as an on the go sharpener you can pack easily either. It's not ideal for larger blades, but for you standard pocket Knives it's plenty; there's a carbide V you should never have to use, but the medium diamond stone can reprofile. And the ceramic rods can bring a decent edge...
(It's no sharpmaker but for 1/3 tte price it holds its own)

As for at home sharpening I also agree your lansky set up should be plenty sufficient. Especially considering a budget you're limited on, save the money and just get better with the system you have. And invest into a fine ceramic honing rod, (which also works great in the kitchen for touchups), or invest in a leather strop and compound, either of these would suffice in helping to remove a wire edge.

You can pick up a 3in1 for on the go sharpening and a messermeister ceramic rod both for about $50, and make yourself a leather strop set up, whether it's using an old leather belt from the salvation army, or a new piece of leather from a local shop, its a good little project and you can make it suit your needs...

Along with your lansky system, a ceramic honing rod (and a leather strop set up) will really up your game to the next level in terms of the final step and the routine maintenance of your sharp edges... Between the two you'll rarely if ever need to even use your "sharpening" stones again...
 
My humble advice.....

Go buy a cheap double sided whetstone and practice free hand sharpening a blade you don't mind learning on.
I will suggest a 400/600 grit combo.

There are literally thousands of great video's on the tube that will point you in a good starting direction and you can improve your technique from there.

Secondly, to maintain an edge use a strop.
The only time you really need to pull out the stones is if you have damaged or micro chipped your edge.

The mileage here will vary based on blade steel, HT, and what you do with your knife....
 
Thanks all for the help and advice.

I am going to make a strop. I have some leather scraps big enough to staple to a piece of wood to make one that will be plenty enough for me right now. What I don't know is what compound to put on it or allow to be absorbed by the leather. I have some Flitz I can put on it if that is a good choice. If there is something better, let me know so I can get it.

I'll look on Ebay for a ceramic rod to use too.

Thanks again.

Nalajr
 
Quick and easy tool for maintaining sharpness? Spyderco Sharpmaker, two preset angle options with medium and fine triangle rods that is best used in a daily maintenance role to keep the edge sharp.

Something to use at the bench? Benchstones, this is where it can get interesting but your in good hands so I think we can get you on the right path. The only real limitation will be the steels you need to sharpen, most basics carbon and stainless steel knives can be sharpened on most any stone but it's the super steels like S30V and greater that need special attention.

A good addition to the Sharpmaker would be a coarse stone, on the lower cost side you have the Norton Crystolon which will grind most anything or the Norton India which is harder and better suited to simpler steels. The India also produces a very sharp edge at coarse levels which can work very well on some knives/tasks. Some have this same success with the Crystolon but I have not, it's quick to grind steel though.

Personally, I like the Norton stones in the 8x3 size because they come as a single stone in a plastic box. The greater width of the stone makes for easier sharpening too. A coarse Crystolon and Fine India with a DMT Aligner Clamp would be another great sharpening set-up, add a ceramic rod for touch-up and you would be on your way to more efficient sharpening.
 
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