I was wondering if anyone has put a sharpening choil on a Medford before? I’ve recently got one of these beasts. I could tell it had been “sharpened” before. When I got it, it wouldn’t even pop arm hair. I put it on my wicked edge and brought the angle down to 25 (was over 30). I couldn’t hit the very back of the edge and even if I could, this thing is so thick it would’ve looked terrible. Looking for suggestions on how to get this taken care of. Thanks in advance for your help.
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Sharpening Choil on Medford?
- Thread starter P4L
- Start date
I was wondering if anyone has put a sharpening choil on a Medford before? I’ve recently got one of these beasts. I could tell it had been “sharpened” a few times before. When I got it, it wouldn’t even pop arm hair. I put it on my wicked edge and brought the angle down to 25 (was over 30). I couldn’t hit the very back of the edge and even if I could, this thing is so thick it would’ve looked terrible. Looking for suggestions on how to get this taken care of. Thanks in advance for your help.
Thanks man that’s very detailed and thought out! I really appreciate it!(…) long story short, imho it's best to sell it and move on. guess all the reasons why the seller sold this model (and not his other model) to you. maybe he didn't like it? why? guess why the knife wasn't sharp and had a poor bevel angel. etc.
Advantage of sharpening notches (choil is bigger):
- ease of sharpening on a flat benchstone
- the 100.0% of the edge length gets sharpened, each millimeter
Disadvantage:
- stuff gets caught (all the time!) when cutting stuff. one has to cut a bit more carefully to avoid stuff getting caught in the notch
Workaround:
- doht use flat benchstone but Sharpmaker or cylindrical sharpening rods (disadvantage: delevops a recurve)
Advantage of Spyderco plunge grinds:
- the 100.0% of the edge length gets sharpened, each millimeter
- nothing gets ever caught when cutting
Disadvantage:
- you need "good quality stones" to sharpen right into it
Workaround:
- doht buy knives whose blades come with a wide plunge grind width
Instead of retroactively milling a sharpening notch (or even finger choil) into your blade —i've done a similar act before on knives— i wouldn't have bought it in the first place. or if someone had given the knife to me, i'd sell it.
The plunge grind has a width, measureable in millimeters (quantifiable), and it's best measured at the bevel. For the typical Spyderco model, the width is almost zero. That's optimal. On your model the width is maybe 5.0mm. Now imagine your model came with a 25mm width! Would you still say "oh i still like the knife model no matter what"? Yeah some buyers doht care or are ignorant or never resharpen. i would NEVER buy a blade with a 25mm wide plunge grind width.
On IG i have no problems with telling knife makers into their face that their plunge grind is too wide and or that they placed the sharpening notch (or the finger choil) a few millimeters to the wrong side, or made it too small. It's a small design detail mistake (but i do care even if the designers doht!). Or that i wouldn't buy their new model because it lacks ease of sharpening. They doht seem to care. The knife looks beautiful, there will still be 400+ buyers world wide, money made, mission accomplished. Mind you, the width of the plunge grind is nothing the designer pinpoints in his CAD drawing. It is simply what comes out of the factory after the machining/grinding process, and is a product of what kind/size of grinding wheel (wheel with radiused edges or with "sharp" edges) the machinist used. The designer gets the prototype, examines the plunge grind/geometries, and finally gives his O.K. to go ahead with the production run.
Sorry for the rant. i doht like my post. I'll delete it within 24h np. Good luck with sharpening your knife if you decide to keep it. oh btw i made a related thread, check it out.