I'm having trouble with sharpening my bark river bushcrafter since it is in CPM 3V. Though for my sharpening tools I have a fallkniven DC4, my own home made strop (with flexicut gold compound), and imperial sand paper (800, 1000, and 2000 grit). Is there a better way to sharpen the bushcrafter that I don't know about? Though I have heard people say to use water stones or DMT stones.
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Sharpening CPM 3V with a Scandi grind
- Thread starter Blrg
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
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- 13,437
A larger bench stone definitely makes it easier to sharpen a scandi, assuming you're not just applying a microbevel. Otherwise, if grinding the full width of the bevels on a scandi, the greater surface area of a bench stone works a lot faster. I think it's also helpful for stabilizing the blade on the stone for sharpening, thereby aiding a better result overall (flatter bevels & cleaner, more consistent scratch pattern). If you don't let the apex get too far gone, the DC4 should do fine to keep it tuned up. Otherwise, it'll take a while to completely regrind to a fresh, crisp apex. For 3V, I'd prefer the diamond, although some decent waterstones might also do OK (you might wait for input from other waterstone experts here). Depending on the abrasive type in the sandpaper, i.e., if it's SiC or good quality aluminum oxide, it might also do OK if used on a hard backing, like glass, stone or hardwood.
In a nutshell though, the wider the bevels being ground upon (scandi is as wide as they come), the bigger difference a larger stone or other large abrasive surface area will make.
David
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I recently reground my BarkRiver Bravo2 in 3v to a zero edge using only SiC paper (3m auto "advanced" wetordry in 220, 400, 600, 1k and 2k) and elbow grease.
I found 3v to be an absolute bear to grind having spent the majority of time on 220 and 400. It is possible though. Wet the paper slightly and use light, even pressure. As a base I used an old "jelly" mousepad. For scandi grinds, use something harder though to preserve the bevel's original geometry. Don't press too hard and remember to clean your paper often, b/c it will load up. Even though it took me a whole weekend, I found it most rewarding. If you like the sandpaper then keep at it and you will not be disappointed.
I found 3v to be an absolute bear to grind having spent the majority of time on 220 and 400. It is possible though. Wet the paper slightly and use light, even pressure. As a base I used an old "jelly" mousepad. For scandi grinds, use something harder though to preserve the bevel's original geometry. Don't press too hard and remember to clean your paper often, b/c it will load up. Even though it took me a whole weekend, I found it most rewarding. If you like the sandpaper then keep at it and you will not be disappointed.
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- Joined
- Sep 23, 2014
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- 1,287
Hi, how many sheets did you use and how many hours did it take (4, 8, 16)? Lube?
Well I had the 9 x 11 sheets in 220 and 2000. I cut them into 4 equal parts per sheet--each was almost 3 inches high and 9 in long. I used all but one of the 220 strips from 1 whole sheet leaving a strip and 4 whole sheets unused. And I mean I used the hell out of them lol. By the time I got to 2k, I was polishing and tieing up loose ends like stray scratch marks from other grits. I used two of my prepared 2k sheets leaving two strips and 4 whole sheets unused. Not nearly as heavily as the 220 though. I can use them again no problem.
In the 400, 600, and 1k, I had the pre cut packs that each had 5 sheets of 3 2/3in x 9in. For the 400, I used 1 sheet quite heavily and a second very lightly. For the 600 and 1k, I used up one whole sheet really well.
Now as I was working, I had an empty Windex bottle filled w water. I would lightly dampen the sheets as needed. When they would dry out, I used a belt cleaning eraser thing that I have for the Ken Onion blade grinder to get rid of most of the swarf. Then I re-dampened them and repeated. With sandpaper, you know the sheet is kaput when after erasing, it does not cut so well but begins to polish. That's when I freshened the sheet. (Note: save the worn papers because they can still abrade--just not at their assigned rating. I use them to "clean up" before moving to a higher grit)
I worked for at least 8 hours on Sat. and another 5 or so on Sunday. I found myself becoming addicted to the finish. I would stop for a while only to return because I wanted more shine or I thought I saw errant scratches from coarser grits etc. One thing I would say is to be sure you completely remove the previous grit's scratch pattern before moving on to the next one. I had suspected 400 grit scratches haunting me at 2k. I smoothed them into oblivion eventually, but if I spent more time on 600 and 1k it would not have happened. Lesson learned. I hope this helps you out.
