Sharpening CPM-D2

M

monsterdog

Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Messages
857
So, got a D2 Para, can't seem to get it shaving sharp and slightly puzzled by this. Everything else I own I can put a sharp edge on, either with a strop or ceramic stones.

What am I doing wrong? Was stropping that thing for an hour last night and it wouldn't shave my arm. Of course thats not necessarily an indication of sharpness, it did seem fairly sharp, just wondering why I can't take it to that next level.

The ground part of the edge is not very high up on the blade, figured this might be the reason, but never reprofiled an edge before so wouldn't know where to start.
 
Mine came shaving sharp and I hav kept it that way with simple stropping. It does sound like you may need to do a little reprofile--but like you I don't have the skills to do that:). Sorry i couldnt be more helpful
 
The beauty of D2 is the ability of it to take a keen, air bleeding edge very fast. Most of the time all that I use to sharpen it is; a butchers steel and a strope loaded with green compound. Only when blade is severely worn, chipped or dented, I would use stones.

So I would say that your blade is either to dull to be restored with the ceramic stones and strope or you might be using the wrong compound on your strope. D2 is not as easy to sharpen as O1 or 1095 but much eaiser than S30V and the rest of the new "supersteels". The best thing to do is to touch up the blade after any significant use instead of letting it go completely dull.
 
cro91 said:
The beauty of D2 is the ability of it to take a keen, air bleeding edge very fast. Most of the time all that I use to sharpen it is; a butchers steel and a strope loaded with green compound. Only when blade is severely worn, chipped or dented, I would use stones.

So I would say that your blade is either to dull to be restored with the ceramic stones and strope or you might be using the wrong compound on your strope. D2 is not as easy to sharpen as O1 or 1095 but much eaiser than S30V and the rest of the new "supersteels". The best thing to do is to touch up the blade after any significant use instead of letting it go completely dull.
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CPM D2 is quite a bit different the standard D2. I find that the CPM stuff takes a much finer edge then regular.

Sharpie the edge and make sure you're actually hitting the edge not the shoulders.
 
I use Spyderco's medium and fine stones and Bark River black and green compounds. I get S30V, VG10, 8cr13mov, 1095 hairsplitting sharp.. I'm kind of assuming its the edge bevel, its a little smaller than what I'm used to on Spyderco blades.

Guess I could convex it with enough time on the black compound or use sandpaper on my strop? What grit would you guys recommend? I've never done this before, but do like convex edges.
 
I would try to strope it again, holding blade on a different angle. Can't help you with the grit and convexing,...never done that.
 
I would use all diamond hones and then finish with a small number of strokes on a strop loaded with submicron diamonds.
 
Start with 320 unless it needs a serious re-profile. 220 if it does.

Then go 600, 800, 1000, 2000. These will be found at auto supply stores in the body section.

I made a second "short strop" to put sandpaper on. The leather is harder than a mouse pad but offeres more control when using sandpaper. Long strop measures 23," short one just under 12."

strops.gif
 
I've had no problems getting excellent edges on CPM D2 with Diamonds, ceramics, or waterstones. I would bet you are not hitting the very edge as suggested previously, as I have always been happy with the sharpness and ease of sharpening of CPM D2.

Mike
 
Jeff Clark said:
I would use all diamond hones and then finish with a small number of strokes on a strop loaded with submicron diamonds.
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If you want to see the true potential of CPM-D2 that's how to do it. It requires the best products to achieve the best edge in sharpening.
 
I dare say you might be sharpening the shoulder, or might not have detected the burr. Iv'e found CPM D2 sharpens up quite easily and takes a nice fine edge .No special sharpening gear is needed, your cermamics will do just fine. My D2 Para is hair whittling after using only Norton carborundum stones and light stropping, although these days I'm using 701 profiles with just as much success.
 
Gov't Mule said:
Start with 320 unless it needs a serious re-profile. 220 if it does.

Then go 600, 800, 1000, 2000. These will be found at auto supply stores in the body section.

I made a second "short strop" to put sandpaper on. The leather is harder than a mouse pad but offeres more control when using sandpaper. Long strop measures 23," short one just under 12."

strops.gif
Click to expand...

Where did you get such a long piece of stropping leather?
 
I got my CPM D-2 Military hair splitting sharp on the Edge-Pro.

First, I rebevelled it ro 15 degrees per side with the 120 and 220 stones, then went to 320,600,800 and1200 grit stones. Finished it off with yellow mylar tape on a glass mount sprayed with .5 micron diamond spray.

To maintain it, I just use the tape and spray.:thumbup:
 
Make sure you're stropping the edge and not the shoulder. CPM-D2 doesn't readilyform a pain-in-the-ass burr like some other steels, so take a Sharpie and mark the entire edge . Strop a couple times to see where the marker is coming off.
 
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