Sharpening CPM154?

[afishhunter]

Couple qestions concerning CPM154 and sharpening it.
If it matters, both knives are a BUCK:
2018 BF 2 blade 301 foum knife, and a 2017 SK Blades "The Gentleman" Buck 110.

1) What is the best edge angle for CPM154?
Can I stick with my "standard" 10 degrees per side/20 degrees inclusive, or do I need to go a bit less keen, say 25 toor 30 degrees inclusive?

2) Do I want a "toothy" edge, or highly polished edge? (I can go as fine as 3,000 grit with a ceramic water stone) I know my green rouge will only burnish the edge when stropping, not remove any metal.

Come to think of it, same two questions for S-30V, if you don't mind, please. I have a Buck 110 with that blade steel.

 

[Greggy]

I own both steels. For me I stick with the boring 16-20 degrees per side. It works just fine this way. I would not overthink it.

 

[Old Biker]

I have always stuck with Bucks factory angle on those knives. probably the best way to find out if you can go finer is just sharpen one of the blades and see how it works. If you start getting edge damage, put a 15 degree per side micro bevel on the blade. Bucks edge angle is generally about 15 degrees per side. But since they are edged by hand there is some variation, up to about 17 degrees per side. And if the edger had a bad day maybe even more. If you don't have a course diamond stone, reprofiling S30v might turn into quite a chore.

O.B.

 

[Another Shepherd]

Based on the work of the late, lamented Knife Grinders, Australia, you should be able to go down to 10 degrees per side with 420HC, which is extremely tough steel. CPM-154 is not nearly so tough. I would guess it might be safe to do 12 degrees per side with CPM-154 unless it is unusually hard. S30V is still less tough; personally, I would not go under 15 degrees per side with it. But this all depends on how you use the knife--if you often put a lot of lateral stress on the edge, add 5 degrees to the numbers above.

Whether you want a toothy edge depends on what you are planning to cut.

 

[AZWhetted]

…Whether you want a toothy edge depends on what you are planning to cut

Exactly. A “toothy” edge will generally work better for slicing meat, cardboard, etc. A smooth edge is better at chopping, like shaving for example. Of course both will work for either chore, just each is a bit better at one than the other.


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[roaduck]

I`ve got a caidao in RWL-34 which is nearly the same as CPM-154 - Crucible Industries Powdered Metallurgy and a Diamond plate with #1000 or even a #400 or #600 grit does the biz with a bit of stropping.
The hardness is generally high fifties/low sixties, good corrosion resistance and ease of sharpening with above average edge retention.Was a super steel years ago but surpassed now.
But still a good all round steel.
For example I can cut a coconut in half with a 2.2mm cleaver blade with no chipping or major malformation so quite a toughie.I have also seen CPM-154 with a good HT go through two inch+ beef bones with no problems.