Sharpening CRK’s for edc use

D

David Reynolds

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Jul 12, 2020
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So I’ve had my large Inkosi insingo blade for a month now. It was brand new when I got it and I took the factory edge to a 30 degree inclusive on my WEPS. I worked my way through the 100, 400, 600, 800 and 1000 grit diamond stones. I then stropped at 4 and 2 micron diamond compound. The edge is very sharp and I love the outcome but it just doesn’t hold that edge. I cut down 6 large cardboard boxes after a party last weekend and I could tell it didn’t have the bite like it did and it also wasn’t shaving hairs. I stropped it on a leather strop with 2 micron compound and it went right back to the amazing sharpness. I just feel that it should have held the edge longer, should I take the edge to say a 17-18 degrees per side or should I keep the 15 dps and not go up to the 1000 grit and finish with like 400-600 grit? Any advice would be appreciated!
 
Both my larges have been taken to a v edge 20 degrees each side. Not a fan of convex edges myself. I can usually go a few months between touch up and they get sharper then snot. All I have is a sharpmaker with diamond stones added to the medium and fine.
 
Ok I just threw it on the wicked edge and put a 18 dps micro bevel with the 15dps main. I’ll probably end up going 18-20 dps eventually.
 
I go old school on my Inkosi.

I sharpen it by hand without any guides on a fine stone (I never let it get even close to dull).

Then I go to work on the loaded strop. What i am left with is a convex edge that will scrape hair yet maintain its durable edge for weeks and months at a time. I dont pack my CRK to be "slicey". I like that it's a fully functional working edge that will go to hell and back.
 
20* per side seems to be the sweet spot for all of my CRK’s. Once the factory edge goes, they all get a ride on the wicked edge for a reprofile.
 
For my work knives, I don’t go above 600 grit, then I’ll strop it with 1200 grit diamond paste lightly.
That works for me.
 
I've been having good (great?) results for years using the brown corners and flats on my Spyderco Sharpmaker with the 20° angles. I'm put very average to mediocre demands on my knives though, cardboard, paper, some very light food, occasional plastic, threads. Nothing I would call very demanding.
 
In my general experience a Sharpmaker is normally good enough for 90% of all tasks.

Then you get me. That sharpen the lazy way. Either 320 grit or 600 grit to as low as possible 10-12 dps and have thinned out my Insingo numerous times.

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So after giving you a heart attack....your knife, due to Vanadium carbides, will keep a working edge for longer than the high polished edge you are after. That is the nature of the beast.

Enjoy your knife and do some experimentation to find what works for you.
 
I use a Sharpmaker to maintain the edge on my CRKs. I hand sharpen my kitchen knives (in better times I work part time as a cook in a high end restaurant) on 1200 and 5k Shapton Pro stones. I've been thinking about using them for the CRKs as well, but in my mind there are a few negatives: Hand sharpening, at least at my skill level, removes more steel and my CRKs are lifetime investments whereas I think of my kitchen knives as consumables to be replaced as they wear out. I've also occasionally put scratches on blades hand sharpening. IDK, I still might make the switch--on the fence.
 
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I read someplace Chris Reeve edges are ground to be sharpened on the Sharpmaker . Works for me.
 
guy g said:
I read someplace Chris Reeve edges are ground to be sharpened on the Sharpmaker . Works for me.
Click to expand...
Hmmm, this is interesting as the sharpmaker is my go to sharpener. I’ve found that it’s the perfect tool for routine maintenance and it works very well.
 
I always put a more obtuse microbevel on my edges with an edge pro. Ive been able to keep a sharp working edge for months to a year like this.

Ill start with the sharpie trick to match the factory edge and use an angle cube to note that degree usually between 20-30 degrees and work that edge to a mirror polish.

Then move up 10 degrees and use a 1000 grit stone and make 4 to 5 passes on each side then back and forth 2 to 4 times.

Cutting carboard, hard plastic and hitting the occasional steel doesnt bother the microbevel too bad.
 
Sharpmaker brown rods then light strop with black then green compound. Quick and easy.
 
The Sharpmaker works great for maintaining the edge. Not so great for restoring the edge. I've also noticed that the way some CRKs are profiled at the factory, it can take a thousand or more strokes on the brown rods to get to where the edge is even affected.
 
A sharpmaker saved the day for me ! I could keep it decent, but not perfect.
I started with the brown on the edge . And finished with the white . Now it can run with the big dogs .
I work on irrigation systems and plastic makes cardboard look like butter .
I started with a golden stone and several different Arkansas stones . But the sharpmaker keeps it sharp .
 
I always touch up on my brown Sharpmaker stones which is quick and easy and also provides a nice bite to the edge. I have had a couple CRKs that the 20dps Sharpmaker does not work on because the edge is >20degrees. When that is the case I reprofile on my Wicked Edge at ~17dps and then go back to the Sharpmaker for micro bevel touch-ups.
 
I used to do my Large CRK knives at the “20” setting on my Wicked Edge, with the blade about centered using upper holes. I had an Impinda, and decided to use the “21” setting on each side, and I was much happier with result. Edge lasted longer, and bevel width looked like a factory grind despite no longer being convex. I bought a Large 31 this spring, and stuck with the “21 setting, top hole” placement, and I was thrilled with the result. FWIW, in this orientation, for this knife, my angle cube reads exactly 20 DPS.
 
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