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SHARPENING D2 BLADE
- Thread starter BillZee
- Start date
Angle? What angle? You guys are using fixtures with unfathomable issues.
The angle I use is the one that will effortlessly slice a Roma tomato. I have no idea what that is, as I free hand sharpen. I use a Coarse DMT 8 inch stone and the most important sharpening tool I use is the magnifying glass on my Victorinox knife
with this magnifying glass I can see if the bevels are flat (which means I am not varying the sharpening angle) , that the bevels are even, and the edge is centered in the blade. My fingers tell me where the burr is. At some point I go a medium or fine India stone
and just remove the burr. No more than a slight polish, D2 is hard enough that extended strokes on a non diamond stone will round the bevels. I feel the keeness of the edge with my fingers.
After that, the edge is sharp. Sharpen enough knives, and then cut things, you will develop your own opinions on what is an appropriate angle.
The angle I use is the one that will effortlessly slice a Roma tomato. I have no idea what that is, as I free hand sharpen. I use a Coarse DMT 8 inch stone and the most important sharpening tool I use is the magnifying glass on my Victorinox knife
with this magnifying glass I can see if the bevels are flat (which means I am not varying the sharpening angle) , that the bevels are even, and the edge is centered in the blade. My fingers tell me where the burr is. At some point I go a medium or fine India stone
and just remove the burr. No more than a slight polish, D2 is hard enough that extended strokes on a non diamond stone will round the bevels. I feel the keeness of the edge with my fingers.
After that, the edge is sharp. Sharpen enough knives, and then cut things, you will develop your own opinions on what is an appropriate angle.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,528
D2 is pretty fussy / needy in the refinement steps. The huge chromium carbides in D2 will tend to blunt or round the edge unless the abrasive can very cleanly thin & shape them, or if technique (steady angle control) is off a bit. Diamond will work best with D2 in the finishing stages, for the sake of cleanly cutting & shaping the carbides at the apex.
For initial grinding to set a new bevel, D2 responds very well to SiC or diamond (CBN should work too). Technically, a good AlOx stone can cut the carbides too - but I've found either SiC or diamond makes it much, much easier.
With the Sharpmaker at hand, I'd just stick with the diamond rods all the way through - skip the ceramics for finishing. If you want more polish beyond the 600 diamond, some diamond compound on a hard strop of wood works very well for that, at 3-micron or finer.
For initial grinding to set a new bevel, D2 responds very well to SiC or diamond (CBN should work too). Technically, a good AlOx stone can cut the carbides too - but I've found either SiC or diamond makes it much, much easier.
With the Sharpmaker at hand, I'd just stick with the diamond rods all the way through - skip the ceramics for finishing. If you want more polish beyond the 600 diamond, some diamond compound on a hard strop of wood works very well for that, at 3-micron or finer.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2017
- Messages
- 988
There is no point in refining a D2 edge beyond medium then strop. Some just do a coarse edge (& strop).
Tool steels are slow wearing, so you need a disproportionate amount of effort for the edge you get. However that repetition invites more errors. So be stringent in maintaining a consistent angle.
Tool steels are slow wearing, so you need a disproportionate amount of effort for the edge you get. However that repetition invites more errors. So be stringent in maintaining a consistent angle.
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2022
- Messages
- 360
Go slow make sure your holding the knife perfect every time. Use the sharpie method suggested and make sure you are getting all the way to the apex. You could find the best fit to your angle adjustments this way.
If you focus on one side and count strokes you can feel for a bur to form. If you want to do this make sure the whole legnth of edge has a bur. And you should know it when you feel it. Atleast at some point you will. I wouldn't focus on one spot to much n use a stroke that you run from heel to tip when going down the rods. Or tip to heel if that's more comfortable. Just not straight up n down the rods. I always found it best to use some horizontal movement with those systems. When you have a bur do the same amount of strokes on the other side to keep the edge even.
You will still have a bur at this point to deal with. You should be able to clean it up by alternating sides on every stoke. Switch to the 600 and do alternating side stokes for 20-40 strokes. If you can feel a bur still keep stroking!
Just reread your post. Not sure where your 320 grit is compared to other stuff I used. I was using a lansky turn box that's similar to the sharpmaker for awhile. The diamond rods on that would form a bur fairly quick if the angle was a match. If the edge needed any reprofiling it took forever tho. It was better to use a 120 diamond plate n freehand it until it was closer.
Not sure what choices you have for angle adjustment on those. On the lansky it's 20 or 25dps n I don't know why they offer 25. I never hear of anyone going that high. Normal range is probably 20-17dps. I doubt anything in that range is gonna break records, but shaving with ease should be achievable.
Just using the sharpmaker might take some time though.
If you focus on one side and count strokes you can feel for a bur to form. If you want to do this make sure the whole legnth of edge has a bur. And you should know it when you feel it. Atleast at some point you will. I wouldn't focus on one spot to much n use a stroke that you run from heel to tip when going down the rods. Or tip to heel if that's more comfortable. Just not straight up n down the rods. I always found it best to use some horizontal movement with those systems. When you have a bur do the same amount of strokes on the other side to keep the edge even.
You will still have a bur at this point to deal with. You should be able to clean it up by alternating sides on every stoke. Switch to the 600 and do alternating side stokes for 20-40 strokes. If you can feel a bur still keep stroking!
Just reread your post. Not sure where your 320 grit is compared to other stuff I used. I was using a lansky turn box that's similar to the sharpmaker for awhile. The diamond rods on that would form a bur fairly quick if the angle was a match. If the edge needed any reprofiling it took forever tho. It was better to use a 120 diamond plate n freehand it until it was closer.
Not sure what choices you have for angle adjustment on those. On the lansky it's 20 or 25dps n I don't know why they offer 25. I never hear of anyone going that high. Normal range is probably 20-17dps. I doubt anything in that range is gonna break records, but shaving with ease should be achievable.
Just using the sharpmaker might take some time though.
- Joined
- Jun 29, 1999
- Messages
- 10,039
D2 seems to work best with a coarse edge in my experience. My Dozier K1 General Utility shears through fibrous materials like a miniature chainsaw.
I have a Boker Kalashnikov D2 BLADE.
It didn't arrive very sharp and I tried sharpening and made it worse.
I have a Sharpmaker with 320 & 600 diamond and ceramic for final step.
Any tips for D2 and what degree angle.
Help!!!!!
A) the 320 / 600 is fine .. Dont ceramic to finish ! Rather leather strop .
B) Angle , What is the factory edge ??deg per side ? What is the knife to be used for ? Try 18deg per side and if the edge does not roll = great !
It didn't arrive very sharp and I tried sharpening and made it worse.
I have a Sharpmaker with 320 & 600 diamond and ceramic for final step.
Any tips for D2 and what degree angle.
Help!!!!!
A) the 320 / 600 is fine .. Dont ceramic to finish ! Rather leather strop .
B) Angle , What is the factory edge ??deg per side ? What is the knife to be used for ? Try 18deg per side and if the edge does not roll = great !