Sharpening DM940 w/Sharpmaker 204

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Jan 25, 2001
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Just sat down to back-bevel my 940 at 30 degrees.

Realized the dual thumb-studs prevent sharpening the "back" of the blade.

I _might_ be OK at 40 degrees. It's still quite sharp, so I'll put it off a while.

Just curious if anyone else has encountered this, and the work-around.

Thanks,

Mike
 
I'm pretty sure you can take them off temporarily on the 710. Should be the same on the 940. Resist the temptation to leave them off; doing so would make it a "gravity knife" to some.
 
Just a question from a person new to sharpening. And as a person who owns a Sharpmaker 204 and is interested in buying the 940.

By back beveling, I understand you to mean that you want to sharpen at a lower angle, and finish at a higher angle. Right?

And how do the thumbstuds get in the way? Do they stick so far out, that when you move to the 30 degree position, that they contact the sticks?

Thanks,

Matthew
 
Originally posted by Starfish
Do they stick so far out, that when you move to the 30 degree position, that they contact the sticks?

Yep, exactly. Between them sticking out fairly far, and the narrowness of the blade, the look like they would hit at the beginning (throat?) of the blade.

It's new and sharp, so I wasn't forced to mess with it. I sure would hate to have to remove the thumbstuds to sharpen though.

Maybe this is an excuse for an edgepro?

Mike
 
I'm not sure an EdgePro would be any better; you'll still have to drag a stick at 30 degrees in the same place. I don't think that removing the thumbstuds is a big deal.
 
Gee that kind of stinks. I'm with you, I don't want to have to remove thumbstuds to sharpen at 30 degrees....

Schmackey - does the 710 suffer from this problem too?

Matthew
 
I didn't experience any problems at 40 degrees with my 940. As thin as the blade and grind is I didn't need to back bevel at all. The 40 degree sticks made that 940 blade like a straight razor.
 
I haven't had the same problem with the 710, but it's a very different blade shape.
 
I've had the same problem on some knives. I don't have any BMs, but here's what works for me. Tilt the blade point up, keep the angle the same, and as you draw the blade down the hone, the studs should clear it, then tilt the blade horizontal for the rest of the stroke.
 
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