Sharpening emerson with lansky system

[Mike3398]

Would my lansky diamond system work for sharpening an emerson mini cqc 15 I just ordered it and it will be my first emerson. I noticed it has a curve. Also because of the grind I wasn't sure if the system would work. I know the question sounds dumb but I know the system isn't the best for all knives. I also could buy the curved stones for the system. Would it be best to use just a plain stone. Thank you

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[Jamesh Bond]

Congrats on the 15. It's my next purchase too!

The lansky will cause your angle to change along the radius of the recurve. It has a fixed point where the knife is. The contact point of the stone on the blade is not fixed. This causes the tangent (hope that's the right term) to lengthen or shorten as it follows the blade, obviously raising or lowering your angle. You can watch this happen if you look at it from the side.

Ive never been a fan of these systems for this exact reason. You can adjust your technique to accommodate somewhat, but during the learning curve, you'll end up needing all the core knowledge you'd need to freehand sharpen anyway.

I hate when people recommend the OP do something they didn't ask about, but I'll be That Guy and recommend freehand.

The reasons are numerous:

You have one of the easiest knives to work with. Nice wide bevel, with only one side to worry about. Simple, responsive steel.

It's cheap and simple. A diamond rod is all you need.

It'll bypass your learning curve. You're going to need the same knowledge base to make your Lansky work well. Then have to learn the muscle skill after that. Why not learn both at the same time?

It's FAR quicker. Both the learning, and the process. Even if you refuse to learn the muscle skill to freehand, and went through all the frustration and time learning how to make the Lansky work, the actually sharpening process will still take FOREVER, due to all the clamping, unchanging, checking, reclaiming, etc. By hand, it'll take minutes.

It's satisfying and empowering. Once you can do it, you can upkeep your knife anywhere, on nearly any surface. No more crutch.

FWIW, I'm not parroting any of this from stuff I read on the internet. Every single thing I've said here is personal experience.

Again, apologies for being That Guy. But if you're on board check out Emerson's tutorial on the website, then head over to Maintenance, Tinkering, & Embellishment here, and read the stickies.

Hope this is something to chew on. I'd just like to help you save time and gain a universally useful skill that's truly cake to learn.

Good luck.

 

[plato01]

Congrats on the 15. It's my next purchase too!

The lansky will cause your angle to change along the radius of the recurve. It has a fixed point where the knife is. The contact point of the stone on the blade is not fixed. This causes the tangent (hope that's the right term) to lengthen or shorten as it follows the blade, obviously raising or lowering your angle. You can watch this happen if you look at it from the side.

Ive never been a fan of these systems for this exact reason. You can adjust your technique to accommodate somewhat, but during the learning curve, you'll end up needing all the core knowledge you'd need to freehand sharpen anyway.

I hate when people recommend the OP do something they didn't ask about, but I'll be That Guy and recommend freehand.

The reasons are numerous:

You have one of the easiest knives to work with. Nice wide bevel, with only one side to worry about. Simple, responsive steel.

It's cheap and simple. A diamond rod is all you need.

It'll bypass your learning curve. You're going to need the same knowledge base to make your Lansky work well. Then have to learn the muscle skill after that. Why not learn both at the same time?

It's FAR quicker. Both the learning, and the process. Even if you refuse to learn the muscle skill to freehand, and went through all the frustration and time learning how to make the Lansky work, the actually sharpening process will still take FOREVER, due to all the clamping, unchanging, checking, reclaiming, etc. By hand, it'll take minutes.

It's satisfying and empowering. Once you can do it, you can upkeep your knife anywhere, on nearly any surface. No more crutch.

FWIW, I'm not parroting any of this from stuff I read on the internet. Every single thing I've said here is personal experience.

Again, apologies for being That Guy. But if you're on board check out Emerson's tutorial on the website, then head over to Maintenance, Tinkering, & Embellishment here, and read the stickies.

Hope this is something to chew on. I'd just like to help you save time and gain a universally useful skill that's truly cake to learn.

Good luck.

Great post!

 

[Jamesh Bond]

Thanks.

I rarely hear my over-worded bleethering described that way lol.

 

[115Italian]

Umm what he said?lol. Just to touch up the edge of an emerson i freehand it. Its very easy because of the chisel edge. When my edge gets wiped out ill put it on my lansky. But none of mine have a recurve and the blades are part serrated so.... Guess im not helping. Anyway. Enjoy your first.

 

[jbmonkey]

Congrats on the 15. It's my next purchase too!

The lansky will cause your angle to change along the radius of the recurve. It has a fixed point where the knife is. The contact point of the stone on the blade is not fixed. This causes the tangent (hope that's the right term) to lengthen or shorten as it follows the blade, obviously raising or lowering your angle. You can watch this happen if you look at it from the side.

Ive never been a fan of these systems for this exact reason. You can adjust your technique to accommodate somewhat, but during the learning curve, you'll end up needing all the core knowledge you'd need to freehand sharpen anyway.

I hate when people recommend the OP do something they didn't ask about, but I'll be That Guy and recommend freehand.

The reasons are numerous:

You have one of the easiest knives to work with. Nice wide bevel, with only one side to worry about. Simple, responsive steel.

It's cheap and simple. A diamond rod is all you need.

It'll bypass your learning curve. You're going to need the same knowledge base to make your Lansky work well. Then have to learn the muscle skill after that. Why not learn both at the same time?

It's FAR quicker. Both the learning, and the process. Even if you refuse to learn the muscle skill to freehand, and went through all the frustration and time learning how to make the Lansky work, the actually sharpening process will still take FOREVER, due to all the clamping, unchanging, checking, reclaiming, etc. By hand, it'll take minutes.

It's satisfying and empowering. Once you can do it, you can upkeep your knife anywhere, on nearly any surface. No more crutch.

FWIW, I'm not parroting any of this from stuff I read on the internet. Every single thing I've said here is personal experience.

Again, apologies for being That Guy. But if you're on board check out Emerson's tutorial on the website, then head over to Maintenance, Tinkering, & Embellishment here, and read the stickies.

Hope this is something to chew on. I'd just like to help you save time and gain a universally useful skill that's truly cake to learn.

Good luck.

Yep. Well said. Im not a fan of many of the systems myself and ive owned and used all of them. For the some pluses they provide, there are many negatives. The sharpmaker is the only system i still use for touchups...

 

[dozer2025]

I have one of the Lansky systems, but I find it to be too wobbly and inconsistent, so i use the stones for small free-handing jobs (though I admit my free-handing needs work).
I like recurve blades and I find rod-based sharpeners work best if you want a consistent-edge system. I say buy a Lanskey Turnbox for $10-15, practice on that, then move up to a Sharpmaker.