Sharpening ESEEs

Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
19
Hey guys,
I just got my first ESEE, the 6, and i been trying to sharpen it after some use, but just cannot seem to get it razor sharp. I got a Gatco edgemate and that is my only sharpener i got for now so it would be nice to find a way to sharpen it razor sharp with that, but if not, how would you sharpen it razor sharp?
 
I just sharpened my Izula on my Spyderco Sharpmaker on the 40% setting using the medium, fine and ultrafine rods and now it's shaving my arm clean.
 
I've been lurkkng on these "how to sharpen my knife" threads, and it seems that the spyderco sharpmaster is the most "idiot proof" tool for me. I'm a total novice at sharpening a knife, so I may have to look at this for future sharpening needs.
 
I had to add the Sharpmaster to my Amazon wishlist. Thanks for the heads up! :thumbup:
 
Oh yeah, I just did the same. I even told my wife that I want that for my anniversary.
 
Which anniversary is knife sharpeners? 10th? :D

LMAO. She wants to go to New York to see a few plays, so I had to ask for something to retain my guy card. What knife do you wear (with a nice suit) to a play followed by dinner? FWIW, it'll be 17yrs.
 
LMAO. She wants to go to New York to see a few plays, so I had to ask for something to retain my guy card. What knife do you wear (with a nice suit) to a play followed by dinner? FWIW, it'll be 17yrs.

The obvious choice would be the Junglas. :D

But I figure an Izula would probably work best. Polish it up and put a nice mirror finish on it and play it off like it's a belt buckle. :p
 
Man you gotta take the time to learn freehand sharpening on benchstones of your choice, there are many good ones out there. The Spyderco sharpmaker is good and better if you get the extra diamond and ultra fine rods but is not comparable to learning the skill of freehand sharpening which anyone can learn it just takes some practice. Many people are afraid of freehand sharpening because people say how hard it is and you can ruin your knife. If you stay away from power grinding it is not that easy to ruin your knife on a benchstone using normal/light pressure. They just don't take metal off that fast. Start off with the angle a little low so the edge is just barely lifted off the stone and take a few swipes. Check the edge for grinding marks. Now flip it over and do the same on the other side. You should have just removed a small amount of metal from the shoulder and you have a reference point. Now start again and raise the knife a little more so the edge is flush and take a few more swipes directly on the edge. Work your way from coarse to fine as you have and strop a few times. Your angle control will get better each time you sharpen. If this doesn't help I am truly sorry cause at first sharpening a knife to a razor edge for me was hell, so I feel ya. Good Luck and any problems ask guys here cause they will give you tons of ideas.
 
I can't seem ti get a decent edge using the sharpmaker. I've had my best results so far with loaded strops. I start with 400 grit emery on a piece of neoprene then switch to a piece of elk hide glued to a board and stainless buffing compound. Not the scary hair popping sharp that some guys go for, but it goes through hide and anything else like butter and holds the edge for a reasonable amount of time.
 
I agree with KNIFEABILITY. get a 6 to 10 inch oil stone and work with it. You can find the stones and honing oil on line. Honing is part of the pleasure of knife love.
 
I generally use a plasma cutter. Makes for an inconsistent but useless edge, takes the wonder out of that phrase of the warranty though :-)

I tend to use small pocket sharpeners since my ESEE is usually used on the go, a folding DMT course diamond stone, and a gatco small triangular ceramic, which seems to cut like the brown spyderco stones. Then will sometimes do finishing/touchups on a spyderco Ultra Fine or Fine rod. Usually the 3 gets a rough edge though, seems to work best for thick rope.
 
One really handy thing I've learned from this forum is to use a sharpie and color the edge so that you can see when you have the angle right. This works if you are reprofiling on something like the Spyderco Sharpmaker (takes forever and a day), or doing things by hand. I started sharpening with the whole Sharpmaker, but I've been trying to do things by hand with the Sharpmaker rods. I've found that I have a much easier time reprofiling by starting with the diamond Sharpmaker rods by hand; then it's a toss-up whether or not I finish it up with the finer grits by hand our on the base. I generally don't switch to the base unless I'm having trouble being consistent.

Hopefully that's helpful :)
 
The Sharpmaker is just an easy method to learn. It seems to be easier to hold something straight up and down than it is to estimate the plane you are cutting between the blade and stone. Either one will improve with practice, but the Sharpmaker takes less practice.

I've never used a clamp system, but every other "system" I've used has been effective, they all just have thier own learning curve.

Grasping the concept of sharpening is the important thing, in my opinion. Without an understanding of the what and why, one is just proceeding blindly. The best instructional DVD won't help anyone until they understand the theory, abrading two planes until they intersect at as fine an edge as possible.
 
What angle should i put on the ESEE 6?

I wouldn't rely on angle estimation by just putting the knife on the stone unless you are truly gifted or a robot. I have to sharpen my knife facing the edge and draw it towards me. This way I can look into the bevel and i know if it is flush with the stone or slightly raised to trim the shoulders for a smoother transition of angles greatly increases cutting ability without sacrificing strength.
 
Knifeability, I totally agree with learning to sharpen free hand. I got my Sharpmaker and loved it, but after a few weeks I just hold the rods and sharpen in my lap. I can customize and change the angle to exactly what the knife and task call for.
 
Back
Top