Sharpening Falk F1 Convex in the Field

M

MilliePop

Joined
Aug 21, 2008
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I've heard of the sand paper and mouse pad technique but I want to learn how to sharpen the convex edge on the Fallkiniven F1 using the traditional technique with a sharpening stone.

If you had to use only one sharpening stone, which one in what coarseness would you use?

*NOTE* When I say "sharpening stone", I mean those brick size ones that chef's use. Or a smaller portable one.
 
What you want to do takes a lot of skill and if you care about the looks of the grind you not going to like the result.

I would use a waterstone because they give very good "feedback" and the softer material would help with skipping. As for a grit I would go with 1200.
 
What you want to do takes a lot of skill and if you care about the looks of the grind you not going to like the result.
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Before mousepads and sandpaper, how did people sharpen convex blades. And no, knives are tools to me so looks come second to function.

Any links or sources will help
 
I dont think there was ay convex tools before sandpaper.
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I have a traditional knife that was been made in Asia and they have been making them for hundreds of years and I believe they all have convex blades. I've seen them use sharpening stones but I have never attempted to sharpen it myself because I believe it requires some skill.
 
nc527 said:
I dont think there was ay convex tools before sandpaper.
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Of course there were. The Katana is known for it's convex edge (forged, then ground on a curved water stone that looks like a tiny half pipe).

I have convexed all of my fixed blades and sharpen them on a ceramic stone when hiking or hunting. It is extremely easy to sharpen a convex in the field on a stone because you are only sharpening the extreme edge, instead of the whole bevel such as on a standard v-grind blade. Sharpen like you sharpen a normal grind (like trying to slice a thin layer off the stone), it takes about 10 sharpenings before the edge starts to develop a bevel and you should re-convex it with sandpaper. I use a Fallkniven DC4 while in the field and it works great. The diamond will allow you to put an edge on a severely dull knife in the field while the ceramic is great for touch-ups around the campfire.

If you want to truely convex sharpen on a benchstone, it's not too difficult. The benchstone should be clamped down or placed on a flat surface because it will help you to maintain your final angle. This is easier if you have a large 8"-10" long benchstone. Start your stroke with the spine of the knife close to the stone then slowly raise the spine through your stroke. When you get to the end of your stroke, you should be at the angle you want the actual edge to be at. For the next stroke, move down and sharpen the next couple inches on the blade. When convexing on a stone I always stop and hold the knife still for a split second at the end of my stroke. This helps me maintain a consistent angle.

I always finish up the edge on a sandpaper strop then a leather strop.

I made these knives from 3/16 O1 and hand convexed them:
DSC01864.jpg

DSC01849.jpg
 
I usually carry a 1200 grit diamond credit card with a green chrome oxide loaded strop glued to the back, I used it to put a very tiny bevel on the edge of my convex blades. No biggie, it's basically convex anyways.

I don't have any photos handy, but I will get some tomorrow.
 
michaelmcgo said:
If you want to truely convex sharpen on a benchstone, it's not too difficult. The benchstone should be clamped down or placed on a flat surface because it will help you to maintain your final angle. This is easier if you have a large 8"-10" long benchstone. Start your stroke with the spine of the knife close to the stone then slowly raise the spine through your stroke. When you get to the end of your stroke, you should be at the angle you want the actual edge to be at. For the next stroke, move down and sharpen the next couple inches on the blade. When convexing on a stone I always stop and hold the knife still for a split second at the end of my stroke. This helps me maintain a consistent angle.
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I find it easier to start at the angle you want at the very edge and then lower the spine/angle.
 
Most folks sharpening freehand on bench stones come out a little convex in their edges anyway. With no flat bevel to follow, since the edge is already convex, that will be even more likely. With just a little extra care and a plan as to which part of the edge or shoulder you want to work on to keep a convex shape I think it is pretty easy to maintain or produce a convex edge with stones. It tends to be a little faceted or choppy though as far as looks go. Finishing with or just doing the sharpening with sandpaper on a soft backing like a strop blends the various angles nicely and is a lot easier. Also using the loaded strop at the end makes a really nice edge very fast regardless of how you got to that point.

If it is carrying in the field you are interested in, then carrying 2 or 3 small pieces of sandpaper in graded grits and a strop is so much more versatile, faster, lighter, and takes up less space then carrying one stone. You will sharpen much faster with the graded paper if you have any damage at all as well as being able to deal with more damage period. Hell, you could carry a piece of 40#, 80#, 120#, 240#, 400#, 800#, 1200#, 2000# paper and the strop for less weight then one of the little stones that you carry on a sheath with the knife and it could be the same size if you wanted it to. I prefer a little bigger strop and paper using a paint stick with leather glued on it about 4 to 6 inches long and carry it and the sandpaper cut the same size or a little bigger and carry them in a Ziploc bag. All stacked up this is very small. You would need several stones and a strop to compete and handle what that kit can handle. Even carrying 1 piece of sandpaper, say 1200#, and a strop is more versatile then carrying one stone IMO.

That said, the stone or diamond card will probably last longer then the paper in a doomsday scenario where you aren't ever coming back to your shop tools.

If you want it a little toothy then the diamond hone or credit card works fine. Still not as versatile as a piece of paint stick with loaded leather glued on it and 1 small piece of wet or dry.

So, you don't want the sandpaper and strop for nostalgic reasons?

Gary
 
So, you don't want the sandpaper and strop for nostalgic reasons?
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Correct.

Great advice guys. I'll probably go with the DC4 as it fits my needs more. And now I actually might try to sharpen that big ol' convex that I have.
 
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