Sharpening for survival

dartanyon

dartanyon

Joined
May 10, 2002
Messages
705
What do you use to sharpen your blade when your in the bush?
I carry a cheap soft pocket stone and spit for sharpening my blades but what am I going to use if I forget or lose my stone?
I guess I'd look for a fine grained soft rock or hardened clay.
Any suggestions?
 
I think those 'soft' pocket stones are actually masses of really small, hard crystals held together with some sort of weak(ish) cement.

Most clay-like rocks will be too soft to sharpen a knife. I would look for a roundish river rock. If it won't scratch the blade steel, it isn't hard enough. I think it would be easiest holding the blade in place and using the rock sort of like a file. Use water to keep the surfaces clean and increase friction between stone and steel. Saliva will ease friction and slow the process.

Just a guess.

Scott
 
in separate kits

I have a diamond stone 2" x1", a diamond rod for serrations.

I wouldn't use spit. I would wash out the shaved steel with water after the sharpening process is complete.
 
I know that there are probably much better choices for sharpeners, but I carry a Gatco sharpener and a Diamond rod sharpener in two different kits. They both do a good job of putting a serviceable edge on my knives in the field.

LinkPhoto
 
Does anyone have an opinion about those little orange Norton stones that come with Randall Made Knives? How would they do on other knives such as a sebenza? Or a CRK fixed blade?

Thanks,
Jason
 
I, in NO way mean for this to sound disrespectful, or obnoxious, but I don't understand what you mean by that Cutler.

Again, no disrespect intended,

Jason
 
I think what he means is there is really no way in hell you are going to put a decent edge on a knife with a rock(I have tried) so you would be better off using a differnt knife, which is why i never have a shortage of knives when im camping. Thats said i Always take my DMT 6"x2" Fine benchstone and 204 sharpmaker.
 
While you can sharpen a knife with a found rock, many hones are in fact just rocks, the hones are carefully selected for uniformity and cut to size and shape and thus can give a much better finish. Assuming your knife is sharp when you leave the house, you are looking at weeks of use to get it to the stage where you could actually improve its sharpness on a rock assuming you treat it with care, which should be your main concern if you somehow have lost your sharpener. I would also suggest looking at stropping and burnishing, these can be done an many different objects and will greatly extend the life of your edge. That being said it never hurts to practice with rocks as it is good to be prepared for a worse case senario. Fine sand can also be used as an abrasive and can be ground up for a very fine paste.

-Cliff
 
Sorry for being short.
What I meant is that another knife makes a good knife steel. You can use the back of one blade to burnish an edge on the other. Try it, it really works.

You can also sharpen a knife really well on the edge of car window glass. You know, that frosted part right on the edge.

Make a stone by gouging a grid of small holes in a whittled-flat stick, filling them with fine sand and using it in a strop fashion.

Unless you can find some very hard stone, like flint or something, most rocks are way too soft and the knife ends up cutting in and dulling further. Nice flat rocks are always soft.
 
Cutler - Make a stone by gouging a grid of small holes in a whittled-flat stick, filling them with fine sand and using it in a strop fashion.

Unreal,what a great idea! I'll try it out, thankyou.

Just thought of something I was taught many years ago. If you have run out of honing oil for your stone, try washing detergent.
 
Any recomendations on the best "EDC Shapener," what I mean is a sharpener that can be carried everyday in a pocket or on a key chain?

Longbow50, I like the picture of the diamond rod, it looks as if it would be a good one to stick in the pocket. Can you tell me any more about it, size? where to get one? cost? Also can you get your blades shaving sharp with it?

Thanks,
Jason
 
EDGE PRO PROFESSIONAL!:D In all seriousness, some of the best IMHO are the small DMT Pocket Models. They fold up to protect the sharpening surface, usually have two different grits, fit on a keychain, cut steel very quickly, and last a very long time. Another thought might be the Gatco pocket ceramic with the different angle tip cover for holding it at a consistent angle.

Mike
 
Medic1210,
Do you have an Edgepro Professional? I have been considering purchasing one and I was wondering what you think. Does it put a better edge on knives than other sharpeners i.e. The Spyderco Sharpmaker?

Thanks
Jason
 
Junkyard, the one pictured is the Gerber diamond sharpener. The wife brought it home for me, but I believe that she paid 10.00 or close to it. As you see it, it's 5 3/8" long. Usable tool surface is more like 2 5/8". Flat on one side and half round on the other. I'm still working with it, but using it like a steel, I took an ancient kitchen prep knife that would barely cut butter and put a shaving edge on it. My problem has always been to keep a consistent sharpening angle with that type of sharpener. All sharpening tips invited. ;)
 
I will jump on that one. I have one and it is by far the greatest sharpener that i have ever had. I have a 204. It now collects dust. The Apex mod that I gave my dad did better for me than my 204 did. Not saying it is bad, the EdgePro's are just better, in a different league. They are also faster IMHO.

Cerberus.
 
Longbow50,

How does the Gatco Micro-x sharpener perform? I am thinking about getting one for touch-ups between resharpenings.


catmath 1911
 
I thought I'd add another tip I learned from a meatworks butcher in the bush. Its a method of making a steel and the one I have still works great. I'll see hw well I can remember the process.

You start with an old rat-tail file and grind all the teeth off till its smooth. You then hang the file blank by the handle with a piece of string. Next you get an iodine solution and dab the solution on the file blank with a piece of cotton wool or a toothbrush. You then leave the blank hanging for about 12 hours I think. Next you scrub the remaining iodine solution off to stop the etching process.
You now have a steel with very small pits all over it and each pit has a very sharp edge for shaving the blade edge. I hope I got it right.
If anyone can correct or improve this process please do so. :)
 
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