Sharpening...Got Brave

[devo55]

I had some time off today because my son has strep throat, so in a few spare moments I went to the basement to try my hand at khukuri sharpening. Now, I had snagged a GS and BAS last week in the tank and these were not especially sharp as they came from Uncle Bill. But, instead of "butchering" these fine examples, I decided to experiment with a Windlass Assam Rifle model that I bought some 20 years ago.

This Windlass is a POS in comparison to the HI khuks. I figured that it would make a good trunk khuk if I could bring it around in terms of being sharp. I clamped the Windlass in my padded vise and got out my Nicholson mill bastard file (thanks for the tip Koster). I began to file an edge and initially ran over onto the blade flats and made some scratches...unfortunate, but no biggie. Pretty soon I got the feel for this and a pretty nice even bevel resulted that was almost sharp just using the file. Next, I used a Smith diamond file paddle to smooth things out a bit. This could just work!

I'm not done, but the dang thing is at least 200% sharper now. A bit more file work on the bevel angle and some smoothing of the edge and this could be a decent khuk. In fact, it may dress up nicely with a bit of polishing.

When I get around to sharpening the HI khuks, I may use some masking tape to define the proper edge bevel so I don't file over onto the flats. My advice to noobs like myself is to give this a try. Just go slow and be conservative with the file. Any tips from you experts would be appreciated.

Jeff

 

[Yvsa]

When I get around to sharpening the HI khuks, I may use some masking tape to define the proper edge bevel so I don't file over onto the flats. My advice to noobs like myself is to give this a try. Just go slow and be conservative with the file. Any tips from you experts would be appreciated.

Jeff

Well done and well written Jeff. Makes me proud it does!

One thing too bear in mind is that the HI khuks are much harder than the Windlass goods 99.99 % of the time and that the sweet spot is almost unfileable.
BUT That is No Biggie if you will indulge yourself and buy at least one DMT Duofold. I recommend two but if you can have only one make it a blue and red which equates to a coarse and a fine grit model.
The other I recommend is the Black/Blue one which is extra coarse and coarse. The extra coarse works really well in removing greater amounts of hard steel more quickly.
Onjce the hones wear in a bit you can get by with a coarse edge only for general all purpose work.
If you don't worry about getting the same angle every stroke you will end up with a convexed edge.
It is just inevitable believe you me.
When you first get the DMT Hones they cut quite aggressively but soon the hard ege is smoothed down and they leave a much nicer finish although it does take some time because the micro grits will just never be as aggressive as a new file.

When in use I just use a plain paper towel too wipe them down with once in a while too keep them cutting better.
And if you just convex the edge already there instead of trying to reprofile the whole bevel into a convex form of coarse it won't take nearly as long.
But the more bevel you can reprofile the better the khuk will perform and the stronger the edge will be.
And that is one of the big reasons I like Sgt Karka's khuks, they all have a complete convexed edge like the older HI's used too have.
When you're lucky enough to have a convexed edge to start with all you have too do is follow the profile.

.

 

[Daniel Koster]

You're on the path to enlightened sharpening, friend. Glad to help you along the way.

Once you've set the bevel, hit it with stones - use the same motion you used with the file - try it, it works.

Lastly, wrap some sandpaper over a piece of pine and do the same motion. Get it up to 400 grit and you'll have a shaving sharp edge.