Sharpening Help / Recommendation

D

dvsdev

Joined
Jul 4, 2007
Messages
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I used a Smith's Diamond Kit (purchased before reading up on kits) to sharpen my knife, which only has a 20 and 25 degree slot. I created a 20/25 double bevel with the coarse stone, then finished it off with the fine stone.

Prior to sharpening, I was able to shave paper. After sharpening, I was no longer able to shave paper, but able to cut myself =(.

To be honest, I am not 100% sure that sharpening each side created a burr. After doing many strokes and seeing a new edge form, I assumed there was a burr by feeling the other side.

Is it because the angles I used were too high?
Did I not sharpen correctly?
Should I ditch this kit and buy a sharpmaker?
 
You probably did not go all the way to the edge, you only need to go to 20 on the coarse stone, finish the second bevel with the fine stone. It should be very sharp after the coarse stone, otherwise it is a sign the edge was not formed properly.

-Cliff
 
I'm not familiar with the Smith's kit, but I would say yes, ditch it. I had a Lansky system years ago, and threw it away after a short while because of the variation of edge angle along the length of the blade.

If the numbers you list are per side (40/50 included angle) it might be all right for low end steels, but higher end steels can take a much more acute angle (such as the Sharpmaker's 30 degree included) which will be much sharper.
 
It says here, http://knives.mylamb.com/calc.htm that 20/25 will not be able to shave paper. I am highly considering in ditching this and getting a sharpmaker because of the angles provided with the Smith's. The knife I just sharpened had AUS 8A steel, and my other knives have VG-10, 154 CM, and D2.

To clarify, would a 20/25 angle edge be able to shave paper like it used to?
 
The edge can get very sharp and easily slice paper at that angle yes. The kit should be fine, I would recommend that you freehand sharpen the main bevel on the stone with a coarse benchstone to 10 to 15 degrees depending on the knife and then just finish with 20 or 25 on the kit to apply the final mini-bevel to the edge.

Since you are just shaping the edge with the benchstone you do not have to be very precise or accurate, you are just trying to obtain an angle which is lower than the final one you are going to sharpen. This is called the relief grind by many people and was popularized by John Juranitch of Razor's Edge.

-Cliff
 
Thank you Cliff, that is a very good suggestion. I think I will try this before I ditch the set.
 
Cliff, I am going to have to try this the next time I sharpen. I took your advice from your first post; it turns out I did not go all the way to the edge. This time I did the first bevel with the coarse stone (20), then finished up the second bevel with the fine stone (25). I am now able to slice paper and cut other things properly.
I would really like to put a more acute edge on my other knives, so I may purchase a Sharpmaker later on.
 
You can grind the edge more acute freehand and then just apply the final bevel with the kit. It is not as difficult as you might think because when you are reducing the bevel you are just shaping so you do not need to be that precise.

-Cliff
 
My rod guided Gatco kit will do 11°, 15°, 19°, 22°, 25°, and 30°.

I have been using the 15°, 19° and 22° to achieve some very nice edges

It seems from what I have seen of the Smith products they are kind of cheap and not very versatile.
 
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