sharpening help

Sammy Mickel · May 19, 1999

I recentely made my second knife. I used air hardend tool steel and heat treated it as best I could with the tools at hand. The problem is I can't get the razor sharp edge that I keep reading about in the forums. The edge doesn't roll over so I don't think it's to soft. I used a "smith's trihone" ,coarse-fine stones, to sharpen the blade. Can anyone give me some advice on sharpening and if I can make or buy some tools to help me. Thanks,Sammy.

Corduroy · May 19, 1999

My method (and I'm really happy with the results) is to set the bevel with 220 grit, then switch to 600, and then either power-strop (for a polished edge, suitable for light-use folders and such) or give it a couple of passes down my "Crock Sticks" to remove the bur and give the edge some "bite" (for most fixed-blades and knives seeing outdoor use). This seems to work on just about every stainless or "carbon" steel I've tried, though I have had a little trouble with some knives in factory-treated ATS-34.

EDIT: Just realized I wasn't totally clear that I'm talking about sharpening with a belt except for the Crock Sticks. I figure you have one (or a wheel) if you made a knife, unless you went the "machinist's file and a load of time" route.

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-Corduroy
(Why else would a bear want a pocket?)

[This message has been edited by Corduroy (edited 19 May 1999).]

george tichbourne · May 19, 1999

Sammy

If you have gotten the edge as hard as you say it is possible that you will never see the wire edge that you are looking for. My knives hardened to RC 56-58 do not exhibit such an edge unless I am sharpening them on a belt sander. After I finish sharpening them on a belt sander I strop the edge on a laminated paper wheel with the same polishing compound that I use for polishing the blades.

When I am touching a blade up in the field with a diamond stone I never see this edge but if I take the time afterwards to strop the blade on a leather strop the edge comes out razor sharp.

Incidently I prefer to sharpen the blade on the diamond stone in one direction only, I feel that the habit some people have of going in circles contributes to their difficulty in achieving a good edge.

I have written instructions posted on my partially constructed web site at www.tichbourneknives.com they might be of some help.

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george

C L Wilkins · May 19, 1999

Check out the information in the Knowledge Base of this website. It is pretty informative information.

www.bladeforums.com/features/faqsharp.html

CWilkins

BCK · May 19, 1999

Hi Sammy! After I have completed a knife, I rough sharpen on a small belt grinder with a 80 grit belt. I then sit in front of the T.V. & get out my Gatco kit, & hand grind for apx. 1 hour to get a nice edge. Then finish with Crock Sticks. Some times I cant get that "edge", it just means that I have to work longer.(I didn't go far enough with the belt grinder).Even if the steel is not heat treated properly, you should still be able to get a good edge. Whether or not it can hold that edge, is a heat treating question. All I can say is keep working away with your sharpening system. However, knife sharpening is really an art. I am a meat cutter, as well as a knife maker, & have seen meat cutters with 30 years in, that still dont know how to sharpen a knife. Keep working untill you feel that rough "curl" on the cutting edge, then finish with crock sticks, or a smooth steel to take that curl off...Good luck, take care...BCK.

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Happy Knifemaking...
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Larry in KY · May 22, 1999

Sammy,

I recently purchased the Edge Pro Sharpening sytem and I highly recommend it for anyone wanting to get a consistent angle on a blade every time. Also, it is no problem at all to get a "razor" or "working" edge on any blade. It makes sharpening very simple and quick. I've tried them all and I like the Edge Pro by far the best!!

Darrel Ralph · May 23, 1999

Sammy
Try belt 220 grit to get the edge . Then go to the spyderco tri sticks . Use the brown first several times to get the edge angle the same the hit it on the white a few times on each side. Every steel is different when sharpening.. so it may take a little work on your part to get it right..

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Take a look!!!

Bob Rosenfeld · May 23, 1999

Here is a ittle tip when using a strop. I take and make apaddle about 12" long and glue a piece of leather to both sides with the smooth side up. On one of the strips go to a lapidary store and get some diamond dust 20,000 to 50,000 grit. It come in a clear grease in a hyperdermic syringe. Put some on the leather and while watching the boob tube. keep pounding it with a small hammer. This will drive the dust into the leather and when finished you have a diamond strop. The D/Dust isnt expensive at all.

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