Sharpening Help

SHARP1983

SHARP1983

Gold Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2016
Messages
480
I've got a Medford Praetorian with D2 steel that I can not seem too get sharp at all. I'm using the Lansky sharpener which I've always had luck with. Who do you guys recommend sending it too for a good sharpening? Prefer someone with a fast turnaround since I don't want to go without my blade. Any suggestions?
 
D2 is very hard to sharpen IMO. Time consuming to say the least. I have sent knives to razor edge. They have great customer service, and they get knives SHARP!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
It takes time and patience. This is why I prefer my Victorinox(whatever metal they use) and Buck 420 hc. My experience with high end metals (CPM 154) is the same. I did eventually get a razor's edge on it, the edge lasts quite awhile, but hell to sharpen. With my Buck and Vic's I just need a few swipes on a steel to shave the hair on my arm. The edge on my cheaper knives may not last as long but because of the ease of sharpening, they have a razor's edge more often than my expensive knife.
Check out the video channel, do a search and keep trying. I wouldn't want to pay someone to sharpen my knives anymore than I'd pay someone to wipe my a**. A long lasting blade is good to have, but I prefer a not so long lasting blade that I can sharpen easily.
 
Are you using diamond stones?
If not, it's going to take a lot more effort, especially with modern steels.

Are you using the Sharpie trick?
If not, you probably aren't hitting the apex of the edge along the entire length.

I have not used a sharpening service but here are a couple that are highly praised ...
~ Jason at Traditional Sharpening
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1132962-Traditional-Sharpening-Services
~ Josh at Razor Edge
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1243155-Mods-Regrinds-Cerakote-and-Sharpening
 
I will suggest you buy a Spyderco Sharpmaker. They are simple to use and very, VERY effective. I can sharpen any knife. Some do take a few more strokes though. You will not be disappointed!!
 
I send my knives to Jason,he has about a week turnaround time,but I usually send 2 or 3 at a time,got some back a couple weeks ago ,have more packed,I tried another one and they kept my knives a month,will not use him again.jason will get it sharp,get the band aids ready ...Good luck
 
SHARP1983 said:
I've got a Medford Praetorian with D2 steel that I can not seem too get sharp at all. I'm using the Lansky sharpener which I've always had luck with. Who do you guys recommend sending it too for a good sharpening? Prefer someone with a fast turnaround since I don't want to go without my blade. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

I think that you doing something wrong if you can not sharp that knive . D2 is nothing special to get sharp ,at least for me . In fact none of the steel is special when it comes to get sharp , if you know what you're doing and you have tool :thumbup:
 
I had a great deal of trouble sharpening a BK-24 (D-2). Never really got the knife to where I like it in terms of sharpness, so I just use the BK-14 mostly when I want to use a small Becker. I mostly do sharpening on a bench stone, diamond on harder steels. Keep trying is my best advice and pay attention to the details.
 
SHARP1983 said:
I've got a Medford Praetorian with D2 steel that I can not seem too get sharp at all. I'm using the Lansky sharpener which I've always had luck with. Who do you guys recommend sending it too for a good sharpening? Prefer someone with a fast turnaround since I don't want to go without my blade. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

There's no special technique for D2. Diamond stones make removing material faster, but the regular Lansky kit works fine.

Use a Sharpie to test your angle. Color the sharpened bevel and make a couple passes with the fine stone. If you only remove a little color at the apex, come down a bit. If you still have color at the apex, come up some. The goal is to find the angle closest to the factory bevel, leaving little to no Sharpie. They may not be the same angle on each side. Don't let it bother you, it has no practical effect.

Once you've got your angles set, start with your coarse stone and work one side of the blade until you can feel a burr running the full length of the blade. This is probably where you're falling short currently. It ABSOLUTELY MUST run the full length of the edge. Once you've got a full length burr repeat the process on the other side.

After getting a full length burr on each side of the blade the hard work's over. Just work your way up through the stones and finish on a strop or just an old bit of leather. Be sure to inspect your stones on occasion too. If they're different in thickness you won't be able to hold a consistent angle. A cheap diamond bench stone can be used to level them.
 
If you want to learn sharpening by hand, sharpmaker is excellent. If you have the hand eye coordination of a paralyzed giraffe (AKA me), I'd use the work sharp (ken onion not necessary).

I got my knife from ripping paper to razor edge within 10 minutes on the work sharp. Currently working on modifying it to be portable, but it is damn effective.
 
T.L.E. Sharp said:
There's no special technique for D2. Diamond stones make removing material faster, but the regular Lansky kit works fine.

Use a Sharpie to test your angle. Color the sharpened bevel and make a couple passes with the fine stone. If you only remove a little color at the apex, come down a bit. If you still have color at the apex, come up some. The goal is to find the angle closest to the factory bevel, leaving little to no Sharpie. They may not be the same angle on each side. Don't let it bother you, it has no practical effect.

Once you've got your angles set, start with your coarse stone and work one side of the blade until you can feel a burr running the full length of the blade. This is probably where you're falling short currently. It ABSOLUTELY MUST run the full length of the edge. Once you've got a full length burr repeat the process on the other side.

After getting a full length burr on each side of the blade the hard work's over. Just work your way up through the stones and finish on a strop or just an old bit of leather. Be sure to inspect your stones on occasion too. If they're different in thickness you won't be able to hold a consistent angle. A cheap diamond bench stone can be used to level them.
Click to expand...


This is great advice, and what you should listen to. As said, D2 is not special(do not listen to a word of anyone who says it is!) It, and 154cm, s30v, etc., are normal steels! I don't know why anyone, who thinks they are difficult to sharpen, would even speak up in a sharpening thread. The problem is there are too many who just want to be RIGHT, rather than help you. There are far too many who think they are very skilled, and have no clue what a truly sharp edge feels like. As said above, there is no MAGIC formula. Keep an even angle, and bring the entire edge to a burr on the opposite side. Then keep flipping the burr while minimizing it more and more with each finer stone. Than strop. Practice this and you will find sharpening most any steel very easy. Yes, I know high Vanadium content and high Tungsten content steels are challenging. But we don't need to talk about those right now.
 
One thing.....maybe two.... that I've found out.

154-CM and VG-10 are EASY to sharpen.
And sharpen WELL !!!!
:thumbup:


VG-10 will SMILE when it sees a Sharpmaker! :)

(and stropping it on an old belt will make it GIDDY!)
 
I looked up a picture of that knife. It appears to have a VERY thick blade, which probably means it has a fairly steep final edge angle. I know the Lansky has a bit of variability in the edge angle based on the width of the blade from the clamp point, to the actual edge. I don't think the blade thickness effects the angle though.

I would guess that you probably have the Lansky set at an angle that's lower than the edge angle that your blade came with. Which means the Lansky will only be grinding at the back of the blade, away from the edge. If you keep at it, at the same angle, you'll eventually reach the edge. After you've removed enough material behind the edge to change the edge angle.

As a test, you might increase the Lansky's angle setting to something much higher. Maybe try the 25 degree slot and see if that gets to the edge.

The unfortunate reality of sharpening blades with thick stock is that you either need to use a high edge angle, or remove a LOT of metal behind the edge to change the overall profile. This produces a nice wide edge bevel that's kinda cool looking though, and certainly increases cutting performance.

Good luck!

Brian.
 
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