Sharpening help.

[ehhh]

I am somewhat new to sharpening. I just got a Sharpmaker and had limited freehand sharpening experience before that.

I reprofiled my 440A Schrade to a 30 back bevel with 40 edge bevel using the method described in the instruction manual. The thing is definitely sharper than it was before (shaves and sometimes push cuts paper), but the edge is much grabbier and does not run across my thumbnail very smoothly. There are no dings, but there is much more friction than there was with the factory edge. I was under the impression that the edge should be more polished than a factory edge using the fine stones. I don't think there is a burr, because I can't feel one when I run my finger perpedendicularly down the edge. Is there a better way to check for a burr?

The same thing happened with my Carbon V Recon Scout. I sharpened only using the 40 degree slots and went by the instructions (20 strokes each side with corner then flat on medium stones, then repeat with fine stones). The knife can push cut paper very close to my point of hold and shave hair, but again, the edge is very grabby/toothy feeling compared to the very smooth factory edge.

Both knives were checked using the marker method, so I'm sure I'm sharpening the edge.

Is there something I may be doing wrong? I don't feel I'm getting these knives as sharp as I can get them, though they are sharp. Perhaps I'm mistaken and the fine stones just leave a toothy edge?
Thanks in advance!
-Jon

 

[redhawk44p]

Get some boron carbide from Hand American and strop with it. It will clean the burr and polish the edge very nicely.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

The thing is definitely sharper than it was before (shaves and sometimes push cuts paper), but the edge is much grabbier and does not run across my thumbnail very smoothly. There are no dings, but there is much more friction than there was with the factory edge.

It sounds like the edge isn't cleanly formed, there are many reasons for this, often it is because the metal is fatigued. The telling sign is "sometimes push cuts paper", it should always do that readily and in fact do it quite far away from where the paper is being held.

Perhaps I'm mistaken and the fine stones just leave a toothy edge?

The Spyderco fine rods will give a fairly high finish, some factory knives do come with a still higher polish, but the Spyderco fine should easily push cut still very well. Some times the factory edges are over polished and rounded so they are very smooth but not very sharp.

Take the knife and slice it into the medium stone directly and very lightly until it won't slice paper at all. This will only take a few passes at most. Now with a very light touch reform the edge with the Spyderco medium alternating sides. This edge should easily push cut paper.

If it doesn't and it forms and slices paper only but is still rough then increase the angle dramatically (5-10 degrees) and again give another few passes very light and then reduce the angle and reform it again. You also want the stones very clean. When the edge has formed crisply then proceed to the fine stones.

-Cliff

 

[redhawk44p]

Here is a pic of a burr problem I had (pic one). I lightly cut into a paper towel and then stropped and the edge is great now (pic two).

 

[ehhh]

Thanks for the responses. I don't have a strop but I will look into getting one.

I'll try the method Cliff posted and post the results. Hopefully I won't have to remove much metal to do this successfully.

 

[leon.pugh]

Get or make 2 while you are at it, an old belt works fine, For a knife you will want to glue them to something ridged ( I used wood thick enough that I can clamp the strop in a vice when I use it. Load one of them with a buffing compound and leave the other one untreated, you will find that they both have a purpose.

Leon Pugh