Sharpening info for first kukri

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Dec 13, 2009
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Hello. I got my first kukri in the mail yesterday. It is really dull. What's a good way to sharpen this blade?.

Thanks for the help.

-Benny-
 
The cheapest and most effective method is a convex grind. $5 for a combo pack of wet/dry sandpaper (220, 400, 800, 1000 grits), a spare mousepad, and some tacks or double sided tape.

Search up "mousepad sharpening" and you should find a tutorial or two :thumbup:
 
I do convex grinds on axes with a slack belt grinder, if that would work on these...
Some people use belt sanders,which is sort of like sharpening with a slack belt. I'm sure it would, if youre careful.
 
I don't have a belt grinder that allows for extra slack on the belt (it's just a cheapie grinder), but I do multiple passes freehand on my big blades, and I figure that gives you an approximation of a convex edge... it's unlikely that I'm getting the EXACT same angle each time, though I try to keep it in the same ballpark by sight. Might vary things a little more if an edge is particularly stubborn. I'll often start out with the steepest angle I can manage without being flush to the main bevel and gradually increase the angle from there if necessary. Sometimes I test the sharp spots on a khuk and try to match that angle when I go to work. Either way, some deviation from the average angle is practically guaranteed.
 
A dull khuk is just Karma's way of giving you a chance to bond with your new khuk. Much like how a man and dog bond over walks and romps or a mother and child bond during those late night feedings, a good movie or ballgame on the TV and some QT with your khuk is all you need.

Whether you use stones or sandpaper or power tools or strops, unlocking the edge of a khuk binds you to it and it to you. It becomes YOUR khuk:thumbup:
 
I dont know if you want to go this route but for every single knife i have sharpened that has a thicker blade i use a angle grinder with 60 grit wheel and work up to a 120 grit wheel .



Then this is followed by putting it to a fine stone then with 1000 grit wet dry sandpaper with honing oil on it and then 1200 grit with honing oil on it.

Then I use some fine polishing compound on a piece of leather,followed by another piece of leather with extra fine polishing compound...that's how i do my blades. If i had Japanese water stones up to 8000 grit id use those too.
 
I also like to finish up a newly-ssharpened edge with a butcher's steel or a ceramic rod, just to remove any wire edge that folded during the machine sharpening.
 
For me it depends.

Some khuks like the ones I own by Bura and Sgt K almost always have thin edges.

Some by others have thick edges.

On the thin edged ones I usually just even out the edge and polish it out using wet dry strips of sandpaper laid on top of this adjustable strop I have:

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=J42

If the khuk has a very thick edge I almost always thin it down using a file or large diamond sharpening rod then I use the strop and sandpaper.
 
For me it depends.

Some khuks like the ones I own by Bura and Sgt K almost always have thin edges.

Some by others have thick edges.

On the thin edged ones I usually just even out the edge and polish it out using wet dry strips of sandpaper laid on top of this adjustable strop I have:

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=J42

If the khuk has a very thick edge I almost always thin it down using a file or large diamond sharpening rod then I use the strop and sandpaper.


When you are thinning it how do you hold it? Do you put it in a vise?

I've never had a whole lot of luck using the strop and sandpaper method; the khuks seem to be too big. I have used it to good effect on some other blades, so I know it does work.
 
I hold the khuk and use 1500-grit sandpaper (cut to size) on a small rubber eraser. Much safer and less awkward.
You can't take a recurve on a khuk to a mousepad covered with sandpaper. It will not indent enough to reach the concave edge near the cho, and you'll mess up the profile. Complete waste of time.

By using the eraser method, you can gently "swab" the edge using fine, controlled strokes, (much like a Japanese polishing ball used on Samurai swords) while maintaining the edge bevel and profile. Work one side from cho to tip, perpendicular to the length of the blade. Then do the other side. For more aggressive work, I will hold the sandpaper under my thumb and apply pressure to the edge profile, pinching it in the process so that it slightly convexes the profile. This will remove dings and dull spots. If done right, it is very consistent.

For safety, I jam the butt of the handle in my crotch and grasp the blade spine so it doesn't slip. No vise needed. Just watch your fingers. I slit my pinky last night and didn't even realize it until later.

You can achieve a SCARY SHARP edge in very short order. I just received a 18" Bura Sirupate that was already acceptably field sharp. After twenty minutes using the eraser/sandpaper, it was frighteningly sharp. I can easily shave looseleaf paper into small ribbons with only a little effort.

Have fun and be safe. Use common sense; don't work around kids/pets.
 
Have some hand soap ready (you'll get schmutz all over your fingers) and wear an apron or something, to keep it off your jeans. Those are my major tips for hand-sharpening/convexing.
 
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