Recommendation? Sharpening Inkosi

S

SuzukiGS750EZ

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Dec 30, 2008
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I own a sharpmaker & just ordered cubic boron nitride rods for it too. I'd like to remove the convex edge of the inkosi since I sharpen on a sharpmaker. A few questions. Do I do the obtuse side on the sharpmaker first, then the more acute, cutting edge side once that's set. Also, how long does it take to reprofile s35vn. I was never really happy with the edge on my sebenza 21.
 
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I use an ultra fine ceramic and strop for edge touch ups. Id practice your technique and worry less about reprofiling the whole thing on a sharpmaker.

Otherwise a DMT or Lansky would do it in an hour or so. Working through the grits carefully.

I used to think I had anxiety and OCD. Then I read your posts lol.

I usually do 19dps roughly once the factory edge is shot.
 
I'll take that as a compliment I just like taking care of my stuff properly. As far as making decisions, I go over the options numerous times! Lol. The acute side on the sharp maker never really seemed to touch the factory edge. It is a convex edge still, right?
 
Yup! Across the board. Use the 20dps to touch it up . Maybe even angle it into the stone a degree or so if you have issues.

:)

PS. You and I would get along great!
 
By removing the convex edge do you mean a full reprofile?
If so, might I recommend first just using the Sharpmaker for touching up the factory edge as needed? YMMV, but I’ve kept my CRK’s running quite a while with that method.

I actually reprofiled my PM2 and Spydermonkey to a 17° convex and then set a final microbevel with a 20° Sharpmaker. I love the results it gave me (but it was a lot of work).
 
I echo the sentiments here .Nothing wrong with the standard edge .Just do light touch ups with the med and fine stones as required .
 
Yes, a full reprofile is what I was asking about. If I sharpen on the 20° side on the sharpmaker, won't it eventually become thicker at the edge more like an axe? I have no experience with convex edges other than my other large 21. That was frustrating to sharpen lol
 
I think it’s common to over think it. Sure, definitely make the edge sharp and sexy looking...but that’s as far as the thought process needs to be. Use the sharpie trick. Mark up the full height of the edge grind. Do not even consider not utilizing the sharpie trick unless you no longer have questions about sharpening. I Almost exclusively use the sharpmaker. I touch up at 40 regularly and lay the edge back w/ the 30 side about every 5-10 touch ups.
 
archieblue said:
I think it’s common to over think it. Sure, definitely make the edge sharp and sexy looking...but that’s as far as the thought process needs to be. Use the sharpie trick. Mark up the full height of the edge grind. Do not even consider not utilizing the sharpie trick unless you no longer have questions about sharpening. I Almost exclusively use the sharpmaker. I touch up at 40 regularly and lay the edge back w/ the 30 side about every 5-10 touch ups.
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I've been using a SM for half my life, literally. I've never had issues sharpening until I bought my large 21. I didn't have luck sharpening that one. I bought extra stones to help with the inkosi if I need it. If I can keep the factory edge sharp I'll be more than happy with it, I just don't want an uneven edge.
 
SuzukiGS750EZ said:
I've been using a SM for half my life, literally. I've never had issues sharpening until I bought my large 21. I didn't have luck sharpening that one. I bought extra stones to help with the inkosi if I need it. If I can keep the factory edge sharp I'll be more than happy with it, I just don't want an uneven edge.
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Do you use the sharpie trick?
 
archieblue said:
If you don’t use the sharpie trick, do you always raise a burr?
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Yes of course. Then knock it down. I just remember having a difficult time with my sebenza. That is LITERALLY the only knife I've had issues with and I've sharpened harder steels.
 
I’ve found that if a knife has a softer heat treat the burr can easily become a wire edge and just bend back and fourth instead of shearing off. Then when you go to cut something it either bends over or crudely peels off. Either outcome leaves unacceptable results. I use two methods to avoid this. 1. is if I do want to raise a burr I will raise it then stroke the opposite side the equal number of strokes then shear it off with a couple of very obtuse strokes on the first side then carefully alternate every 3 strokes until I’ve repaired the damage from the obtuse strokes. Or 2. is I just don’t raise a burr. With marking the blade with a sharpie it is possible to just nail the apex without raising a burr.
 
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