Sharpening issues with my ZT 0350

Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
965
Let me start by saying I am a novice sharpener. I have always used 1095 or aus8 knives and can get them push cutting sharp using a mouse pad and 1000 grit sandpaper, followed up with some light stropping with the green compound. However, I can not get the same results with my zt0350. I really love this knife but if I cant get it as sharp as my "cheaper" knives, I am going to sell or trade it. If anyone can help me and my zt stay together please help. You can send me advice to my e-mail @unklfranco@aol.com or post it here. Thank you
 
I'm guessing the recurve is messing up your sharpening. I would grab a long thin can of deodorizer or hairspray, put the mousepad and sandpaper on top of it, and try sharpening that way.
 
Assuming S30V in your ZT-0350 (this is what mine is), it is a completely different animal, when it comes to sharpening. And especially if compared to 1095 or AUS-8. It's a LOT more abrasion-resistant, due to very large and very hard carbides in the steel (meaning it takes a LOT longer to remove metal). Diamond would always be my first choice for sharpening it. The wet/dry sandpaper (silicon carbide) can work too, but you'll likely need to use a more aggressive grit to start.

Another thing about S30V, it's known for initially taking a shaving edge, and then losing that quickly, leaving a coarser, but much more durable working edge behind, which lasts a long time under heavy use. 1095 and AUS-8 will also take very fine shaving edges, but will steadily get duller with heavy use. So, in a nutshell, they do perform very differently, and that extends to sharpening them as well.
 
here is a method i came up with using a pringles can. cut the bottom of the can out and attach some abrasive paper to it. crimp down one side so you have somewhat of a square corner so you can sharpen the plunge line area of the blade. you put your arm through the can with the flat facing the handle of the knife for each side. match up the angle by tilting the blade and slowly push the blade away from you while working your way to the tip where you will stop. dont let the tip slide off or you'll round off the tip. switch the can to your other arm and repeat. once you have a burr worked up, go to a strop or ceramic stick to remove the burr.

for some recurves i use my belt sander or my paper wheels. i always finish off any edge with the slotted paper buffing wheel which gives me a razor edge.
 
Wow, I knew you guys would know what to do. Thanks alot for the sharpening tips. I think the recurve shape is a major part of my difficulty. I also did not know the S30v was more abrasive resistant than the steels I am used to. I thought it would be about the same but with more lateral strength. This is my first time ever owning a knife made of this steel. I will try the pringles/round tube shape tip and little more patience before I throw in the towel. I will post some pics if I get er done. Thank again everyone.

Franco
 
a Spyderco sharpmaker will handle any recurve you can toss at it. i have both the 350 and sharpmaker along with a couple of strops and it's easy to get it shaving sharp.

the sharpmaker was money well spent in my books
 
Wow, I knew you guys would know what to do. Thanks alot for the sharpening tips. I think the recurve shape is a major part of my difficulty. I also did not know the S30v was more abrasive resistant than the steels I am used to. I thought it would be about the same but with more lateral strength. This is my first time ever owning a knife made of this steel. I will try the pringles/round tube shape tip and little more patience before I throw in the towel. I will post some pics if I get er done. Thank again everyone.

Franco

The S30V ZT-0350 was the one that introduced me to the concept of 'abrasion resistance' in steel. I used a Lansky guided system to reprofile the bevel on mine, and it took a LOOONNG time to get it done. Really opened my eyes to how different some alloys can be. I wore out a couple of my Lansky hones doing it (they weren't diamond, just the 'standard' hones). I had ONE medium diamond hone for my Lansky, bought to supplement the others in the set. It was already fairly worn before I started, and I shortened a good part of it's usable life in the process.

The tip about using a cylinder (like a Pringle's can) with sandpaper, for the recurve, is a good one. Could obviously be done with any other cylindrical shape too (PVC pipe, jelly jar, etc.). I don't think my arm will quite fit in a Pringle's can, unless they're making bigger chips these days. :D
 
Hey all,
I just picked up a ZT0350. My first good knife. I've been lurking for a while, but now I have a question (or two). My 350 didn't come very sharp. It also looks like each side has a different angle ground. At least, the width of the exposed metal is wider on one side.

I bought a lansky diamond system today. If I start on the extra course, and reshape the edge, how does that effect the coating on the blade? Will it grind down ok, or will it chip or otherwise be bad? Should I work the thinner side more until they're more even? It says in the ZT manual to use 18-22 degrees, so is everyone using the 20 with lansky?

Thanks!
 
welcome to the fourm. the coating will come off as you take the edge down so no worries there. you have to take the thin side down like you said to get the edges even. try out different angles and see what works the best for you.
 
Hey all,
I just picked up a ZT0350. My first good knife. I've been lurking for a while, but now I have a question (or two). My 350 didn't come very sharp. It also looks like each side has a different angle ground. At least, the width of the exposed metal is wider on one side.

I bought a lansky diamond system today. If I start on the extra course, and reshape the edge, how does that effect the coating on the blade? Will it grind down ok, or will it chip or otherwise be bad? Should I work the thinner side more until they're more even? It says in the ZT manual to use 18-22 degrees, so is everyone using the 20 with lansky?

Thanks!

As with most of my knives I've done on the Lansky (including my ZT-0350), I just used the lowest setting that'd work, without the clamp getting in the way. I'm assuming it was less than 20 for mine, but I don't remember specifically. That's obviously a preference thing. In this case, with S30V, that steel will hold up just fine at low angles. And, as mentioned, the coating won't be an issue at all.

Thick blades like the ZT-0350 will often be a little asymmetrical in grind, being thicker on one side or the other. It's common for bevel widths to be a little different on each side, as a result. Don't worry too much about it, unless it's so extreme as to imply a manufacturing defect. In that case, just send it back. Otherwise, just focus on making the bevels as clean & smooth as you can, with a fully-apexed edge.
 
Hey all,
I just picked up a ZT0350. My first good knife. I've been lurking for a while, but now I have a question (or two). My 350 didn't come very sharp. It also looks like each side has a different angle ground. At least, the width of the exposed metal is wider on one side.

I bought a lansky diamond system today. If I start on the extra course, and reshape the edge, how does that effect the coating on the blade? Will it grind down ok, or will it chip or otherwise be bad? Should I work the thinner side more until they're more even? It says in the ZT manual to use 18-22 degrees, so is everyone using the 20 with lansky?

Thanks!

Just have Richard J reprofile the knife. It will then be a breeze to maintain or resharpen and it will have beautiful bevels to boot.
 
Thanks for all the tips! I did the marker trick and got it profiled pretty well now. Wow, even with the diamond stones, it takes a while! Spent about 45 minutes getting it close.. Think I'm gonna go pick up the sapphire ultra fine stone today, and get a real strop. I was using an old leather belt. Still got a bit to go to get shaving sharp, but it's time to go earn a paycheck..
 
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