Sharpening knives

With the Spyderco Sharpmaker (with ultra-fine rod), then stropping.
It really is quite a solid, easy-to-use guided sharpening system. I suck at sharpening in general, so if it works for me it should work for anyone with basic sharpening needs (who isn't 'in the field').
 
Jesse B. said:
With the Spyderco Sharpmaker (with ultra-fine rod), then stropping.
It really is quite a solid, easy-to-use guided sharpening system. I suck at sharpening in general, so if it works for me it should work for anyone with basic sharpening needs (who isn't 'in the field').
Click to expand...

LOL...I never could use that thing. :D

I mainly just use a strop. I find it's easier to just keep it sharp.
 
Sharpmaker, ultra fine rods, and strop. I would like like to learn more but this seems to be working
 
I use 2"X8"diamond hones and free hand sharpen, have for 30 years. You could get get a Jarbenza, I hear they never need sharpening ;) ( sorry folks, couldn't resist :))
 
Sharpmaker then strop, or if I wanna go convex, I just strop on fine sandpaper. I have a few knives I only sharpen on stones. For that I have 2 grades of fine Arkansas stones, then strop on leather with 1200 grit compound. At this point I can sharpen any blade I've run into with one of these methods and get a screaming sharp edge consistently. It just takes practice until you eventually get to the point where you know what you're doing. You develop a "feel" for it.
 
I have almost everyimplement under the sun. Edge Pro with shapton stones and atomas, single and combo waterstones, diamond stones, various strops, 1x30 bench grinder, ceramic rods, and diamond/ceramic combo benchstone from Fallkniven (dc 521). The fallkniven diamond ceramic combo stone definitely sees more use than anything i have. Unlike my waterstones , it is a one size fits all stone. No soaking or flattening. Plenty of aggression for re-profiling. Ceramic iis fine enough for polishing bevels and creating an extremey refined edge capable of EASILY push cutting newsprint, tree topping arm hair, and whittling hair in both directions. Obviously it doesnt leave as perfectly finished bevels as the EPA, the difference in sharpness is immeasurable, and just like all freehand sharpening; hou are left with a slightly convexed edge. I know many out there are huge fans of the sharpmaker, I think it lacks the versatility of stones. Especially diamond/ceramic combo stones, or even a cheaper high/low grit combo stone like a king 800/4000. I think either this stone combined with a cheap fine ceramic rod or the Fallkniven combo stone beats the pants off the sharpmaker for versatility. If you need more repeatability, go buy a Sharpie!.
 
In this order: Paper wheels, strop with white "rouge" on cardboard, then strop on leather.

Sometimes I use a sharpmaker, sandpaper on glass, or a Fallkniven DC4 stone.
 
I have been using my new Edge Pro and I am loving the sharpness I'm getting on my kitchen knives and meat cutting knives from work.
 
I have a Wicked Edge. I went free hand for years and was pretty good. I just get a lot of enjoyment out of the very sharp edges I can get over and over again with the WE. Truly a great sharpening system.
 
I have a Sharpmaker and just this week got a dmt deluxe aligner kit so I can do alittle reprofiling.
 
I've gone through everything from Spyderco ceramics, diamond stones, the bottom of coffee cups, stone bakeware, bricks, a concrete sidewalk (just the one time), to waterstones, strops, and paste loaded balsa wood.
 
I use a sharpmaker mostly and a lansky for reprofiling completely screwed up bevels so then I can sharpen on the sharpmaker. It works fine but im wanting more, I will get an edge pro in the future since im tired of ugly factory bevels, I have invested enough in blades for it to be worthwhile at this point. I also use a knives plus strop which works exceptionally well, and a worksharp field sharpener for my fixed blades, most of which are a bit cumbersome to sharpen on the sharpmaker.
 
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