Sharpening Machete Help Needed

Alan_B

Alan_B

Joined
Apr 16, 1999
Messages
212
I recently retrieved a Woodsman Pal and a Barteaux from semi-retirement and they are both in need of serious sharpening. Any advice of your preferred method would be appreciated. Spefically, it seems to me that these things are too big for easy sharpening with a Spyderco Sharpmaker and using a Lansky would require a lot of set-ups moving the bracket. Thanks in advance, Alan
 
Because the size of the blade makes it too awkward to use on a fixed stone, use a small stone, hold the blade fixed and work the hone along it. Once you get the rough work done and the edge is thin but not quite razor sharp (depends on how good your freehand skills are), take a ceramic rod (or simiar) and wipe it along the edge to put on an additional small bevel. Only a few strokes are needed.

-Cliff
 
If the edges are in bad shape I use a sharpening file (I think made by Nichols)and then a stone and/or ceramic rod held like a file.I usually take a "c" clamp and clamp the blade to a table or something of suitable height.
m
 
Marion do you leave the edge with the file finish? I like that for slicing (ductile steels are very high performers like that) but not for high impact work. I have found that generally a finer finish handles the chopping for longer periods of time and sharpens easier after blunting.

-Cliff
 
The best advice I've ever read is to keep a 6" mill bastard inside the sheath. Course or fine cut up to you. A few strokes at the end of the day and you're ready for tomorrow. Don't remove the dents and dings, just smooth them out and you've got "custom" serations!

I've never understood the need for $200 super steel machetes when all they cut is vegetable matter, and get beat up hitting the ground.

Jeff Randall can chime in anytime as he's spent much more time in the scrub than me, and will have some good advice. A file has worked for me for years in the backyard and forest. -Brian
 
I use an 8" mill bastard file (or whatever other file is available in a pinch) and sharpen at approximately 25-30 degree angle (by eyeball). sharpen one side to a burr then turn over and get the burr on opposite side. then I go lightly several strokes on each side just to smooth out the edge and if I still have some time to kill I grab some 240 grit sandpaper in a sanding block and sand away from the blade edge to smooth it even further. A bonus of the sandpaper treatment at the end is a slight convexing of the edge which I feel tends to make the edge a little stronger.
All of the above usually doesn't take more than 5 to 10 minutes max.
Alex Penton
 
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