Sharpening Methods

geekswithguns

geekswithguns

Joined
May 24, 2005
Messages
485
Ok kids....what sharpening system do you like the best?

I'm currently using a spyderco sharpmaker- does a reasonable job on both plain and serrated edges. I have used a big DMT diamond steel for kitchen knives- but if I make the mistake of using it on anything else I end up with scratches on the blade face...

so lets hear the best techniques and products to make our knives stupid, ouch f*&*^ing hell that looks like a bad cut but i didn't even feel it sharp...
 
I use my belt grinder, slack belt 220/320grit belt to get edge and get the burr, then strop with a naked leather back of a belt to knock off the burr. I ordered an edge pro and will be getting it this week, so will let you know how it works.
 
Depending on the knife and how I am feeling that particular day, it can be any one of or any combination of the following:

Arkansas stones (two different grades)
Diamond stones (DMT large benchstones in F and EF, or DMT diafolds dual grit x-coarse/coarse and f/ef)
Spyderco sharpmaker rods (I just have the rods, not the sharpmaker system)
Cutlery World brand ceramic rods
Stropping on sandpaper up to 2000 grit, followed by leather charged with Metal-Glo and then plain leather

And my kitchen knives see the steel regularly.
 
The Sterling sharpeners are a good way to wreck a knife. They are basically metal scrapers (silicon carbide or similar) that peel off metal from your edge. They will leave a very effective edge, but it will be ragged and burred. This will slice like crazy, but will be weak. It may not work all that well on high quality blades that are hardened up around 60 RC. These work best on cheap kitchen knives that are down around 54 RC. If you use these very often your they eat up your blade and the edge loses its flatness.

Lean your diamond hone up against a Sharpmaker rod when you profile. You should be able to avoid marring your blades.
 
I use DMT plates for the coarse stuff and waterstones from 1k to 15k. For insanely sharp, I use .3 micron 3M microfinishing film or .25 micron diamond paste on a very hard leather strop.
 
I did try Akransas stones, but have NEVER truly learned how to sharpen a knife. Ended up with way too many scratches.
Just got some generic ceramic rods. Does anyone know of a good, simple, fool-proof, safe for amateurs in the sharpening world, type of system? Is the Spyderco system real good? I am thinking that ceramic rods, set in a wood base are my best bet to avoid scratches and do not want to waste my money by ruining my new knife I just ordered.

Opinions please. Advice needed. :eek:
 
Check out the edgepro system...I cannot give firsthand experience yet, but it looks pretty idiot proof and I have one on it's way to my doorstep as we speak. It lets you set the angle of the blade, it doesn't have slots for the rods which have play, it doesn' thave a crappy clamp that wont hold a knife, but will scratch it, but it did cost me $145.00 shipped.
 
Spyderco sharpmaker, or a Arkansas stone.

I have been looking at a sharpening system called the Warthog, at least think that is the name. Anyone got feedback on those?
 
mthall47 said:
I did try Akransas stones, but have NEVER truly learned how to sharpen a knife. Ended up with way too many scratches.

Opinions please. Advice needed. :eek:
Click to expand...
There's no real magic to sharpening a knife using Arkansas Stones.
Try this method and you won't scratch your blades either. :)

Cheers
Rod
 
Halfneck: I bought a Warthog about a year ago after reading about it in Blade or TK. It works......OK. It has 3 angles to choose from. But to change angles it takes dealing with 4 rather small hard to get to screws.
Plus, it has, of course one set of rods. You can order a fine set, but again, changing them out would certainly not be worth the time. To me, anyway.
I have considered getting another Warthog with the fine rods attached, & go from course to fine with no time lost.
It works better on some blades. It seems to do better on thinner, small blades (less than 3 inches) (No Serrations Allowed)
I find myself going back to the tried & true Sharpmaker, about 90% of the time. I'm not slamming the Warthog, as I said, I might buy another. But if you want One sharpener for all-around-use, I would have to vote for the Spydie.
(YMMV)
 
Like Yuzuha, I've tested about every sharpening system on the planet over the past 1/2 century that I've been sharpening. I view the Sharpmaker and other V sharpeners as steels rather than grinders so I dismiss them out of hand. they are touch up tools. I have about 7 of them and my comment fits all of them. I have a belt grinder but would never subject my own knives to it because it removes more steel than is necessary. Same with any powered sharpener. I used paper wheels for quite a while until I started noticing how much steel they removed. Powered sharpeners are fast but overly aggressive. Jeff Clark is 100% right about the "carbide notch" sharpeners. They don't grind, they tear. Never subject your knives to one of these. Many systems don't have adjustable angles so are basically worthless. The reality is that most sharpening systems are a compromise when compared to hand sharpening and not very good compromises at that.

I only recommend hand sharpening and the fixture type sharpeners. The Edgepro is the best one I have used but can scratch blades if you aren't careful. At least it keeps the angle constant throughout the process and that is the problem most beginning sharpeners have. I use one myself and I've scratched plenty of blades with it. The Lansky only has a few angle options and requires you to regrind your bevels to one of those angles before sharpening, but it does work.

When all is said and done, hand sharpening is really best. It's a useful skill to acquire because it really gets you in touch with the process, is infinitely flexible in terms of angle and finish and is relatively inexpensive because the stones will last for a very long time. I have drawers full of sharpening contraptions that don't deserve to be removed from the drawers.

Now as to stones, I prefer Japanese waterstones because they work quickly without being aggressive. The downside is that they dish and need to be flattened from time to time. They have a shorter life span than others. Diamond is fast, at least for a while, but is somewhat aggressive so should be viewed as good for coarse work only. Natural stones last nearly forever but work quite slowly. I'm too impatient to use them personally. Man-made oil stones would be my second choice after waterstones. They have most of the advantages of waterstones except they are significantly slower and they can be messy to use. I guess waterstones are messy as well to be honest.

Learn to sharpen by hand. It doesn't take very long to learn and a little practice will get you going. It only takes a little skill to maintain the angle as you go and it takes a little patience to be sure that you finish completely with one grit before going to the next. Inventors have tried for years to come up with something better and I have yet to see anything better.

The best edges I've ever used other than those I applied myself were all done by hand with stones by people with good hand sharpening skills. So there's an old timer's opinion. Best of luck.
 
Definately. There's still a whole load of different ways to do it, but it's got to be by hand.
 
I only recommend hand sharpening and the fixture type sharpeners. The Edgepro is the best one I have used but can scratch blades if you aren't careful. At least it keeps the angle constant throughout the process and that is the problem most beginning sharpeners have. I use one myself and I've scratched plenty of blades with it. [/QUOTE said:
I was thinking the way to go with the edgepro would be to put a piece of that tacky(not sticky) shelf liner material that keeps stuff from sliding and that would help keep from scratching the blade.
Click to expand...
 
Rod Neep said:
There's no real magic to sharpening a knife using Arkansas Stones.
Try this method and you won't scratch your blades either. :)

Cheers
Rod
Click to expand...

Thanks Rod

Any idea a really good online source for the stones you mentioned, at a good price?

My other, BIG question is where I can get a truly excellent edge guide -- like something you would put on the knife? My ceramic rod system does work, but does not get any where near the sharpness I want.
 
ANGRYMOB said:
I only recommend hand sharpening and the fixture type sharpeners. The Edgepro is the best one I have used but can scratch blades if you aren't careful. At least it keeps the angle constant throughout the process and that is the problem most beginning sharpeners have. I use one myself and I've scratched plenty of blades with it. [/QUOTE said:
I was thinking the way to go with the edgepro would be to put a piece of that tacky(not sticky) shelf liner material that keeps stuff from sliding and that would help keep from scratching the blade.
Click to expand...

I use duct tape which seems to work OK. In order to prevent scratches I find I need to change the tape every time I sharpen a knife and then wash the tape with every grit change. It's a hassle and actually slower than sharpening by hand but having that rigidly held angle is probably worth it for cutting new bevels. You can just grind and forget it. No need to concentrate on that angle. Then there is an accurate and straight pair of bevels which makes the hand finishing work very easy. Take care.
Click to expand...
 
I really think we should make sharping a sticky here , I think it would
be good for not only the oldtimers but the new comers as well:cool:

just a thiught

Zoo
 
Is a sticky a permanent subject category?
 
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