Sharpening methods

Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Messages
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I have been thinking of my best results of sharpening blades( relative newcomer but some experience) and I am preparing to purchase some equipment. I think I will go with the belt sander for the initial grinding and paper wheels for the finishing. I wonder what grits for the belt sander and any thoughts on this method. Thanks for your time and ain't this forum great!
 
It really depends on a lot of things. How dull or damaged is the blade, what type of steel, what do you use the knife for/how sharp do you want it, how big is the blade, experience level... That's the cool thing about belts- wide range of grits and things you can do. For a beginner, 180 eats pretty quickly. 320 is pretty forgiving, but it takes a while to get your profile. I start with 40grit if the blade needs reshaping, and it's perfect in seconds.
 
A belt sander has lots more versatility, but if all you're looking for is a dedicated knife sharpening device, the paper wheels do a good job. I don't know how good the carbide coated wheel is for rebeveling, but matching the existing angle shouldn't be any harder than with stones. Whichever you choose, be sure to set up good lighting. The burr gets very big very quick with power equipment, and you need to be able to clearly see what you're doing until you get some practice.
 
40 grit sounds very coarse to me . Maybe if I were grinding out a blade . For rebeveling I use 120 grit and it works fast for setting the angle . Then finish up on a stone or strop . DM
 
Or you know, get a Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener and do both:thumbup:. I definitely like how it's more compact than my bench grinder. I also like that you can buy aftermarket belts to best suit your needs.

Though I still haven't found any leather belts that are the proper dimensions for the thing so I can use my 0.5 CrO Veritas Compound on it:grumpy:. Anybody got any leads on that?
 
I have the paper wheels, and I achieved some great sharpening with it at first, and now I cannot seem to get it right. So, I bought a belt sander used on Craigs List. It is a 1x42. I bought many grit belts for different reasons, but so far, I use the 600 then the 800 and then a leather belt loaded with 1 micron diamond paste. The 600 is aggressive enough for my modern folders of 154 CM Benchmade Griptilian and even my Spyderco Paramilitary D2. I can work up a burr within 4 passes with the belt slacked. I do not bear down on it, there is no need. I work a burr on each side, then change from 600 to 800, then work up a burr, then get rid of the burr with the leather strop belt also a 1x42 belt. I am more happy with this method than any before. I started with the Lansky, then the paper wheels, then hand sharpening on a homeade ramp, and then to the belts. I like em really sharp, but no time to do it by hand, so I do it this way now. I am very pleased with the results. The only downside is the changing of the belts, but I just prep 3 to 5 knives to sharpen and go from there. On my slipjoints, I go from 800 to leather belt. I see no need to use anything more aggressive, I would chew up my blades.

Note: I would recommend you continue your quest, trying many methods as opportunity provides itself to purchase equipment, so you can find the best way to satisfy your edginess. Good luck and remember to have fun doing it. I remember how excited I was when I could finally whittle hair with one of my knives with the paper wheels. It is where I reached new levels of sharpness. Then, I had to fill a hole in my edgy heart taht wanted me to learn free hand. It was a Buck 110. I sharpened that one by hand to hair whittling. My wife thought she was going to have to make me appt. with the Psych Dr. I used DMT, Spyderco ceramics, and then a leather strop that I made. It made me content that if need be, I could hand sharpen really well. Once I was able to do it, (I dare not say I mastered it), I was somehow on a new quest to do it faster with the same results. Hence the 1x42. I did not want a cheapy 1x30 from Harbor Freight, but I knew even that would be ok. I found an old clunker with a Dayton motor and it needed re wiring, relubing, and a switch installed. Otherwise, it had to be plugged in or out in order to turn it on or off. I now am really satisfied with this device, and going to start grinding small beat up hatchets that I find into hawks with the more aggressive belts.. Fun stuff! Enjoy.
 
In all my blah blah blahs, forgot to welcome you to Blade Forums. I am one of those guys who posts too much. :-)
 
um, why not just go with the paper wheel first and see if that system works out for you. You may not even need the belt system after you try the paper wheels. considering the paper wheels cost a fraction of the price and you are already gonna finish with the slotted wheel, why waste more money if you dont need to as well as the space and time?
 
Once again thanks for the advice....I have used wheels in the past but I believe the belt sander is up next.I liked the wheels but there seems to be more available with the sander. Thanks again.
 
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