Sharpening Moras on a Work Sharp Knife Sharpener

T

Tobster

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Feb 4, 2013
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I'm new to this site and also a new owner of a WSKS. This tool has enabled me to sharpen all of our household and outdoor knives to my satisfaction. After spending some time searching around this excellent site, I have an interest in purchasing a Mora or two. However, if I understand this correctly, the WSKS put on a convex edge where the Moras come with the Scandi edge. If this is correct, can I still use my WSKS on my Moras if I buy them or will I ruin them.

I have a knife that is stamped, "Frosts Made in Sweden Mora Stainless Steel". I am not sure where I got this knife, but would like to get a couple more, it has about a 4" blade, black handle with green ends and a green sheath. Is this a Mora a Frosts or????

Thanks
Tobster
 
Don't do it, the scandi edge is way easy to keep and will give a razor edge. I have the work sharp and sharpen all my knives with it except my scandi edge knives.
 
Vistor message is waiting for you Tobster. :) That is where to get them, but I would agree with rwdata about the WSKS and your Scandi (zero ground saber grind). I would not suggest using it on the Mora.
 
My mora actually came with a microbevel from factory. I don't know about you but I used to sharpen my mora by laying it on the scandi grind, then going up a tiny bit and sharpening from there. It used to take forever when I tried to sharpen the whole scandi grind without a microbevel.
 
Thanks for the message, I will take a look. Since I am not skilled at sharpening, other than with my WSKS, how should I sharpen my Frosts/Moras. I like to learn, so let me know how.
 
Waterstones work very well. Lay the bevel on the stone and grind until Sharp. The knife pretty much guides itself.
 
You could put a microbevel on it but you would have to maintain the scandi grind too, otherwise you will and up with a "two bevel knife" with the scandi at about 12 dps and your now primary bevel at whatever angle you put on. Sure, nothing wrong with this, however it defeats the purpose of a scandi completely!! You may then be better of with a full flat or saber grind where the "large" grind is usually between 5-7 dps and it is easier to maintain your primare edge bevel at whatever angle you choose. If you would go for a 1/8 inch thick sabergrind bushcraft style knife, you may have the best of all worlds!

I totally agree that jws are the best tool to sharpen a scandi, better than sandpaper on glass etc., particularly when you start with about 1000 grit. The surface is smooth enough yet grinds well. You can even use it as your one and only stone and just strop carefully after with the scandi still flat, gives you a very slightly stronger apex.

In regards to Ray Mears scandi sharpening video - and this is not a critic to Ray Mears generally - I doubt that he actually put this mirror polished edge on at camp. Honestly, 8 strokes here and there, coming off the stone withe the tip going over the stone edge (which you can hear every single time), on one shot you see the edge near the ricasso reflecting light etc. As we all know and have discussed and seen (Magnaminous_G, HH, KN1013, bluntcut) sharpening is not easy, you have to practice, practice, practice. Constantly check your progress, use markers, light, lupe etc. I would consider myself as an advanced beginner in sharpening and I have spent many hours/days working on scandi grinds and it just annoys me if someone makes it look so easy - you get the point.

Sorry that I got carried away here a bit!
 
awestib said:
In regards to Ray Mears scandi sharpening video - and this is not a critic to Ray Mears generally - I doubt that he actually put this mirror polished edge on at camp. Honestly, 8 strokes here and there, coming off the stone withe the tip going over the stone edge (which you can hear every single time), on one shot you see the edge near the ricasso reflecting light etc.
Click to expand...

He's demonstrating the technique.
 
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