Sharpening my Benchmade Griptilian

X

XGrip

Joined
Apr 22, 2005
Messages
35
Hey all, so ok i used to has a burr in my edge and now its fine and clean but it wont frikin sharpen. im using a spyderco sharpmaker and have been sharpening the new fine edge for like 45 minutes and its still isnt even relatively sharp. What do i do, and i dont want to send it to benchmade i just got it back and had this sharpening accident resulting in the burr and dullness. Help please.
 
Paint each side of the edge with a magic marker, then do a sharpening pass on each side. Then look at the edge. You may not be hitting the actual edge, in which case you'll want to reprofile the blade, probably with a Lansky or Edge Pro. Reprofilel it to the angle of your Sharpmaker.
 
or, wrap sandpaper around the rods, if they don't match. be very careful, if you don't want to scratch
 
See now that helps me alot but heres the problem, i just bought the sharpmkaer. I cant afford to buy a lansky or an edgepro for reprofiling now, should i just wait till i get my next knife then ship it out to benchmade again?
 
You could pick up a coarse diamond file for cheap... something like this maybe http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=115-403 or similar. If you don't like to freehand, you could lean it up against a sharpmaker rod and just grind gently in a front to back circular motion rather than an up and down motion (due to the shortness of the diamond surface) until you get the bevel fairly close and then go back to the sharpmaker.
 
Would just A WHHOOOLE lot of sharpmaker sharpening on the corners of the medium grits do the trick?
 
XGrip said:
Would just A WHHOOOLE lot of sharpmaker sharpening on the corners of the medium grits do the trick?
Click to expand...

That's pretty much it if you've no diamond hones or Edge Pro. What I do in the same situation is this. Set the medium ones at 30 degrees at the corners. Get an idea of how sharp the blade is (dull, somewhat sharp, unevenly sharp) then start to back bevel the blade as the manual/ video instructs. I usually don't count strokes, I just use steady, medium strokes for about a minute, then check the sharpness again. I repeat this until there is a noticeable increase in sharpness and stop when the blade is evenly sharp and has a 'utility edge.' It may take 10 minutes, it may take 30 depending on your speed, angle, etc. Then, use the flats of the mdium rods and do twenty strokes to ensure the 30 degree bevel. Afterwards, use the corners of the white rods at 40 degrees to reach that next level of sharpness (shaving hair). Then, go to the flats of the white rods at 40 degrees and sharpen as instructed in the video/ manual.
This should give a nice shaving edge witha 40 degree microbevel (terminology?) and a 30 degree secondary bevel. From what you describe here, it sounds like the edge was not touched at all in your original sharpening.
This may sound like a lot of work, but the Grips, from what I remeber, are made of the the more shapening friendly 440C. You should have a nice edge after about 20 to 45 minutes versus hours trying to back bevel S30V on a Sharpmaker (I did this before I knew any better). Hope this helps
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top