If you have the tanto point, then you have a chisel. If you have the spear point, then you have a non-chisel ground.
The picture is a tanto point. If your tip isn't like this, you have the CQC-7A. The CQC-7B has the point as shown above.
Sharpen at a 30-degree angle and stop your sharpening stroke when you reach the "corner" before it goes to the tip edge. Do the tip portion of the edge seperately so to avoid rounding the corner.
The difference in the chisel grind to the other grinds is that the chisel grind is groun only on one side. You should not sharpen on the flat unground side. When you are finished sharpening the side that is already ground, a burr (raised portion) should pop up on the flat side. Do not stop until you can feel a little thing raised up from the flat side, just feel for it. When you have a burr, then you have ground all the way to end of the edge and are ready to either strop the flat side or use a finer stone on the ground side to make the scratch pattern on the edge more fine. WHen you have used your finest stone on the ground side, or don't wish to go any finer (hard Arkansas is plenty), then strop the burr off the flat side. There are several ways to strop. Some people use some leather strip, like an old belt, and place a MILD abrasive on it. Chromium oxide, red rouge, or white rouge will generally all do fine. Just pull back the flat side of the edge almost flat against the leather and let the mild abrasives do the work. This is generally done pulling back, not cutting into like you would on a sharpening stone.
If you are confused about how this works, don't try it until you do understand it. You don't want to mess up your knife. The key is largely raising the burr on the flat side (don't grind on the flat side, grind on the ground side until a little rolled piece of edge pops up on the flat side), and then removing the burr and checking to make sure there is none on either side. I will post diagrams soon.
