Sharpening my HOFSH

5

500jefferyDK

Joined
Jul 9, 2005
Messages
475
Hogs
How do you sharpen your HOFSH or any other Busse knives after real hard use.
And I am not talking strop here:D
I did some testing as some of you might know from the general descusion forum and got some small deformations on the edge of the blade.
I plan to chop away tomorrow and need to get the knife sharp the right way again. I normally use stones when sharpening knives but also have ceramic rods.

Cheers,

André

PS these are the deformations on the knife.

PPS should I post the test in this forum to or is that out of bounce since I also test other makes then Busse?

ChopOffTrailMasterandHOFSHLE13.jpg


ChopOffTrailMasterandHOFSHLE14.jpg
 
I use a 220 or 320 grit DMT diamond stone, then a 1000 King water stone, than finish with a 5000 to 15000 grit finish stone. I thin them down substantially, working carefully freehand trying to keep the edge between the coating and the edge as straight as possible (they are not always straight, though).

I sometimes question whether it is really worth it to take them past 1000 grit, because the 1000 grit edge is sharp and aggressive, but I love to sharpen so I usually do. Oleyfermo (Mr. Jimmy Fikes) inspired me to get to the point where I can sharpen so my knives can cut relatively easy through a paperback or phone book, and I can usually do this the easiest after the 1000 grit stone. I should probably work on my finishing stone technique!

Then if I feel like it, I strop them on leather loaded with 6 to 3 to 1 micron diamond paste (mixed with Handamerican chromium oxide gel because of it's lube properties). I think I've yet to find another knife brand that can get as sharp by stropping as a Busse. For some reason I can get Busse's really sharp with a lot of stropping, while at the same time with many other makers knives I'm better off to strop very lightly 2 or 3 times, then stop.

If resale and/or appearance is a major consideration, you may want to use one of the sharpening jigs/gadgets to stay very close to the original edge bevel angle - this way you are more likely to get a straight line at the edge/blade coating. If you're careful this edge can be made to look the same as the factory edge. This is the pretty much the only circumstance where I use my EZ-sharp anymore, and is a good way to thin out an edge a little bit with less chance of an uneven blade coating line.

I much prefer a thinner edge on my Busse's! I just reprofiled (and stripped) my AK-47 to roughly 17 or maybe a bit less degrees per side, and the difference in how it cuts through saplings and bushes before versus after is pretty amazing (I also love the industrial look with raw dimpled infi!!). I have not noticed any increased edge damage or loss of edge retention since, either.

Good Luck! Looking forward to seeing your test results. It would be interesting if you did thin the edge of the Busse, then performed the tests on the thinner edge!

Hopefully some of the many experts here will give you their opinions, as well.
Bruce
 
Broos

Thanks for your imput.
I might consider thining the edge on the HOFSH. I also like a scary sharp knife and also sharpen free handed.
I might try to use my Arkensas stones on the INFI maybe it is good enough. If not I will have to get some large diamond "stones" I thik that Norton has some nice 10" ones.

Cheers,

André
 
Steel it or hit it with a ceramic rod and then strop it. Those rolls ought to come out pretty easy.
 
oh man! it's ruined now! you can send it to me, as i need some paperweights, and i can give you a little something, how about $20 or $30. and since i feel so bad you ruined your knife, i will send you a recon tanto or something that when you ruin you can just throw away! ;-)




if not, just use a steel to "push" out the roll over, i've clean up way worse than yours that way, with little to no metal removal(ie stone)
 
Yager said:
oh man! it's ruined now! you can send it to me, as i need some paperweights, and i can give you a little something, how about $20 or $30. and since i feel so bad you ruined your knife, i will send you a recon tanto or something that when you ruin you can just throw away! ;-)




if not, just use a steel to "push" out the roll over, i've clean up way worse than yours that way, with little to no metal removal(ie stone)
Click to expand...

Doh! I meant to say send it to me and I will take care of it for you. You should have it back in about "two weeks". :D
 
Progunner said:
Steel it or hit it with a ceramic rod and then strop it.
Click to expand...

You generally don't want to do that on a chopping knife as it can turn a deformation into a tear or at the least induce the deformation to propogate deeper. An alignment is often argued to save metal, but that kind of performance is an abberation anyway and you don't want that quality of steel on the edge, it should not have turned on clean wood.

500jefferyDK said:
I might try to use my Arkensas stones on the INFI maybe it is good enough.
Click to expand...

It is, I have. I think the forum regulars would appreciate a cross post/link.

Broos said:
I sometimes question whether it is really worth it to take them past 1000 grit, because the 1000 grit edge is sharp and aggressive, but I love to sharpen so I usually do. Oleyfermo (Mr. Jimmy Fikes) inspired me to get to the point where I can sharpen so my knives can cut relatively easy through a paperback or phone book, and I can usually do this the easiest after the 1000 grit stone.
Click to expand...

That is interesting, how are you doing the cuts, on a straight push or with a rocking motion? I have not done the phone book cutting but would have assumed it would be better with a high polish than a rougher finish based on other work.

-Cliff
 
I just sharpened it on the pink Translucent Arkensas stone and after that on a finer one. Result was good and the knife still has the original edge dimentions. I might make the edge thinner just to see if that helps on sharpness.
I needed to sharpen the knife before going out to the forrest and testing the knife again.

Cheers,

André
 
I am back from my test in the forest.
The finer edge worked better and the INFI has no deformations this time. I even tested chopping with maximum power strokes.
I might give the knife a thinner edge for more sharpness.

Get online hogs, reply reply reply:D :eek: ;)

Cheers,

André
 
Awesome! You convinced me to finally try something new on my blades. Great thread and keep the info coming.:thumbup:
I reprofiled my HH and attempted a convex on my STRipper. The HH has been freakin' great around the yard, but with the new edge profile, it's going camping with the wife and I tommorow:thumbup: :D :thumbup: :D . I will post pics appropriately on Monday.
I think I might strip the Heavy Heart soon. I like the look of raw INFI, and, as much as I have to sharpen it, no black coating should make it easier.
 
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