Sharpening my new Liten Bror

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Sep 5, 2006
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Just bought this Liten Bror to carry, hiking and I was wondering if it can be sharpened on crock sticks? That's how I sharpen most of my blades and I know some won't sharpen well on them. So, I thought I'd better ask before I try it. (Moras sharpen up just fine on them)
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Looks like a Convex edge to me, and you can but I would recommend keeping it Convex

Convex sharpening is basically sharpening freehand on a semi-hard surface. Stones don't "give" so Sandpaper and a softback such as a Rubber mat or computer mousepad would work

I'm sure a lot of guys will chime in later to assist, but here are a couple videos Tradja made for KSF

Nicely done series, probably get a cup of jo before you sit down

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages.php?pID=4&CDpath=0
 
Get a strop. The leather is a great cushion for the sandpaper. USE LIGHT PRESSURE and you should be able to keep it sharp, just with the strop for a while. Depends on your amount of wear and tear.
A few strokes with each side on 600, 1000, 1200, and or 2000, all depends on how much work the edge needs.
Bark River has a tutorial on sharpening as well.
 
I hoped I could use the sticks as I'm not good at freehand, but I will try what's best. (I keep Moras and Helles very sharp on the sticks)
 
I'll 2nd the strop (leather on wood) + sandpaper method.

Very, very simple to get the hang of it, especially when starting with a new knife (with a presumably decent edge). Just like stropping, using edge-trailing strokes, but done with a grit choice to suit the needs of your edge. If you haven't stropped before, you might practice with any similarly sized blade (doesn't even have to be convex to begin with, but if it is, so much the better). Start very light, with something like 1000 grit. That'll be aggressive enough to see the results of your effort quickly, without being too aggressive and overdoing it. Use light pressure, as if you were wiping some peanut butter from the edge of your knife, onto a paper towel. No heavier than that. Take a close look at the edge after every 3-5 passes, see how it's changing. Test the edge by cutting some paper or something similar. To avoid rounding the edge, keep the angle as low as possible, and the pressure light.

If you really do want to continue using your crock sticks, the sandpaper could also be wrapped around those, if you find the normal grit of the ceramic to be too fine to get the job done. At least that way, you're still using the method/technique that's comfortable for you, but with a coarser grit. Same fundamentals apply: light pressure and maintain consistent angle. With the sandpaper in particular, light pressure is essential, so you won't cut the paper with an edge-leading stroke.

Good luck.
 
Great looking Barkie!Do what works for you.But,I also think the strop and sandpaper to be the best option.
 
I use DMT blue/red on mine, but if crock sticks work for you, they'll be fine on that steel.
 
Don't be put off by the free hand sharpening on strops. I absolutely suck at free hand sharpening but for some reason (probably because of the geometries involved) stropping is much more forgiving and I can get a really good edge with little effort. Just get a double sided strop kit from KSF and you'll be stropping like a pro in no time. KSF also have a series of videos on the website explaining the action needed.
 
I forgot to mention, if you are going to sharpen it as a scandi, then sharpening is a no brainer, just lay it down and grind away. That's why I like diamonds, they work great on 3V. If you want to go convex or put a microbevel on, then there are the options that others describe.
 
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