Sharpening NMSFNO

230grains

230grains

Joined
Jul 10, 2009
Messages
3,094
So i'm set on the NMSFNO, going to pick one up as soon as I see one for sale that I like here. I know it does not have a convexed edge, and honestly.. I'm not going to try and reprofile it. I practiced with a CRKT m16 and it ended up dull as all hell, so i'm not even going to let the Busse touch a mouse and sandpaper. That being said, i'm sharpening retarded. My knives get sharpened at work against a grindwheel on a centerless machine, just dress the wheel very fine and have at it. I'm NOT going to be doing that to a knife i'm spending 400 dollars on AND void the warrenty. I need a sharpening solution, that someone who is as brain dead with sharpening can still get it shaving sharp with. Is the sharpmaker an option? I don't need it hair SPLITTING sharp, but all my knives need to be able to shave paper and arm hair. What are some other fool proof options? Remember, I'm absolutely useless with sharpening a knife unless it involves a giant grind wheel. I also don't want to spend a lot of cash, i'm thinking around 50-60 dollars so an edge pro is out for now.
 
I use a JRE Industries 4-sided strop bat on my smaller convex knives.
$35 and comes preloaded with black/green/pink compound and one side bare leather.
 
I might be wrong and you might want to check with Busse, but the only warranty info that I have ever heard of concerning their knives goes as follows:

"With a steel like INFI it's easy to understand why we offer the toughest guarantee in the business. We guarantee against any and all unintentional MAJOR damage forever."

_______Rat Pack #106_______
 
If doing something as simple as sharpening my knives on a power tool voids their warranties, every knife I own is going to end up with a voided warranty. I sharpen everything to a convex with a belt sander - I switched to the sander a month or two back after realizing how long it would take to convex the edge of my NMSFNO by hand, and having just done another large knife by hand.


If you thin out the edge so much that it can't help but chip, I doubt they will warranty against edge damage, but using power tools doesn't automatically void your warranty. In fact, I seem to recall Jerry giving me a few tips on belt sharpening when I first picked up my sander.


Edit:

If you think you're more comfortable with power tools, you might want to consider picking up a cheap 1x30 sander from Harbor Freight. I think I paid 35 bucks for my sander, and another 30 or 40 bucks in belts from Lee Valley tools. I wouldn't have needed to spend nearly that much, but I wanted to get a wide variety of grits since I was already paying for the shipping. The most expensive of the belts was the leather strop belt, which should last a long time.

I learned to sharpen on a grinding wheel when I was a kid, but I would NEVER EVER touch a high quality blade to a bench grinder again. Those things are for lawnmower blades, not precision cutting tools, IMHO.
 
I'm not really comfortable using power tools on an expensive knife when I suck at sharpening as bad as I do. I can make aerospace parts with tolerances of .00001, but hand me a knife and i'll dull it.

Are these paper wheels easy to use? I have a bench grinder but I really don't want to screw up a good knife.
 
richard j said:
the paper wheels work great and it doesnt take long to learn how to use them. check out this thread i started on them http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578787 i have sharpened quite a few busse knives and they work great on them.
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Any chance of really screwing up with paper wheels and messing up the knife? Tried looking for videos of it's application, like angles and such. Will this work with non convexed blades as well?
 
once you learn how to use the wheels on cheap knives you wont mess up any good knives. if you do i can fix it for you. i have some vids at my website on using them but they arent too good. http://sites.google.com/site/richardjsknives/ they were made for sharpening just about anything including scissors and sheet metal shears.
 
Richard I went out and bought a 6 inch bench grinder and ordered those wheels (the 8 inch kit) thanks to your advice. The wheels are backordered until Wed but i'm sure i'll be seeking your advice. When you're working up the bur, you grind on both sides like traditional sharpening, correct? Same with the buffing wheel?
 
You should learn to use the DMT Diafold sharpeners. It's very easy and they are very light and packable. I use the Red/Green Diafold with very good results on blades of every size, including the AK-47.
 
Maqua said:
You should learn to use the DMT Diafold sharpeners. It's very easy and they are very light and packable. I use the Red/Green Diafold with very good results on blades of every size, including the AK-47.
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I may pick some up for a field sharpening kit.
 
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Yeah they're really easy to use. I hold the blade edge up and pull the DMT down and away using light pressure. The sharpener stays at the correct angle and the diamonds do all the work. With not much practice, you can get an edge hair popping sharp with just a couple of swipes. The spyderco ceramic files work well, too. NMSFNO may not work so well with a sharpmaker though.
 
i have some vids showing how to sharpen on the wheels at my website. you do both sided just like any other method.
 
On mine, I just use the Lansky Croc Sticks. A few strokes down the fine Ceramic rod at the 25 degree and it's back to paper slicing sharp, even after chopping wood.
 
richard j said:
i have some vids showing how to sharpen on the wheels at my website. you do both sided just like any other method.
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I was browsing your website but couldn't find any videos of actual sharpening on the wheels. What angle are you using?
 
LeftytwoGuns said:
On mine, I just use the Lansky Croc Sticks. A few strokes down the fine Ceramic rod at the 25 degree and it's back to paper slicing sharp, even after chopping wood.
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It came sharp enough for just a minor touch up to get it sharp or did it require a lot of work to give it a edge? I saw someone say their NMSFNO came very dull.
 
Mine came plenty sharp for a chopper, I don't really need it sharp enough for slicing tomatoes or something.

It did not, and does not require much work at all to get back to paper slicing sharp, when new, or after use.
IMG_0760.jpg
 
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