Sharpening on a Wetstone

W

W201

Joined
Mar 1, 2010
Messages
17
Hi

New member here. Noticed there isn't a search feature on these forums, or at least I can't find it.

I have a question about sharpening on a wetstone...

I want a 20 degree edge on both sides of the blade. I'm holding the knife handle with my right hand, driving the blade with the three fingers of my left while maintaining the 20 degree angle. The sharp side if facing away from me.

That's one side. Would it be a good idea to now flip the knife so that now my left hand is holding the handle and my right hand is driving the blade?

This is the only way I feel confident in maintaining the same edge on both sides of the blade because I'm always looking at the top of the knife as I sharpen and I can visually see the angle I want. I just don't know if it's ok to keep switching the knife handle from one hand to the other.

I hope that makes sense. Any advice would be great!

THanks.
 
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I find I have more control keeping my dominate hand on the handle, but everyone is different, find what works and is most comfortable for you and stick with it till you perfect it.
 
W201, welcome to Bladeforums!

I've moved this thread from General Knife Discussion to Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment, where we discuss sharpening.

As a Registered User, non-paying member, you don't have access to BF's search, but you can search here by using Google or Yahoo, for example. Put in your search terms followed by site:Bladforums.com.

We also have a Google search especially for BF you can bookmark:
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=011197018607028182644:qfobr3dlcra

:
 
I generally keep the handle of the knife in my right hand and 'guide' the blade with my left for both sides of the blade, so I push the knife away for one side, and draw toward me for the other. It's taken me forever to learn to keep the angles consistent while getting a good scratch pattern over the whole length of the blade with this method, though. Maybe your method will work better for you - nothing wrong with using whatever system works best. :thumbup:
 
Thanks for the tips.

I feel that I have better control of the angle when I flip the knife after sharpening one side. I'm just starting out, so maybe I'm just being a noobie.
 
Forgot to ask... what's a good combination of wetstones for someone that's just starting out but wants a professional finish?

I was thinking something like 240, 400, 800 and strop. Is that a combination that would give good results?

Also, is it bad sharpen a knife with different brand stones, or all stones of the same grit created equal?

Thanks.
 
Depending on what steel you're sharpening, diamond benchstones might be a good bet. You need to learn a soft touch with diamond, since it is inherently aggressive, but the results are worth the short learning curve.

You don't need stones all from the same manufacturer at the different grits, as long as all of them are reputable.
 
Thanks Esav Benyamin.

Right now I have three stones and the finest grit I think is 400 blah. I thought about just going to autozone and getting some 1000 grit sandpaper but also been wanting to get a dmt benchstone, so I'm going to look into that for my next purchase.

Appreciate your replies.
 
I like sandpaper myself. Used like a strop by putting the sandpaper on a mousepad, you can convex an edge.
I have a fine DMT stone myself. I also have a Spyderco Doublestuff which is great for finishing.
 
Hey thanks. I like the mouse pad idea. I'll have to give that a try :thumbup:
 
I only have 2 wetstones right now myself a 1000 and a 6000, but I am a little anal about keeping my edges up to par,. If I ever get into a position that my edges are to far out of shape for the wet stones I have a lansky system to get them back in shape.
On a normal sharpening day for me I just go straight to the 6000 and follow it up with a strop loaded with .5 micron compound.
I am looking into a good set of high quality wet stones ranging up from 220 to about 12000, and I will throw my 2 little stones in my backpack for keeping the edges up in the field. For most people I think 220-1000 would be a good range to have and a good strop to follow up with. Just my 2 cents worth but I am no expert
 
Press gently. If you push down too hard, it rounds the edge instead of just convexing. You can use leather too, like an old belt. Carrying a bit of sandpaper and wrapping it around your belt, and you have a field-expedient touch-up system.
 
Shows how ignorant I am:o

Online, I saw a Japanese stone for sale labeled as a whetstone. I thought, "Damn, they can't spell for $hit!"

Today I learned a new word :)
 
Any diamond stone is fine as long as it is a DMT:D

I would recommend you look at the DMT aligner with the folding diafolds stones. It flat works great. The Diafold in the double sided stones in coarse/fine and fine/extra extra fine will do it all pretty well.
 
Different professionals prefer different finishes. Some go to mirror polish, some stop at 320 grit. For people getting started I usually recommend a Norton Coarse/Fine combination India stone. They are gray on the coarse side and orange on the fine side. I got mine from Grainger for $20. You can also order them or get them from local woodworking shops. The coarse is about 100 grit and the fine is about 320-400 grit. The fine side will give a hair shaving edge that lasts a while.

FWIW, I switch hands when sharpening with the stone on a table or work bench. I lay the stone on the table in front of me, then use strokes away from me. 20 strokes on one side, check for a burr, then 20 on the other side and check for a burr. When I have a burr along the entire edge from both sides on the coarse stone, I switch to the fine stone and alternate strokes, 1 and 1. I also elevate the angle about 5 degrees. My intent is to just cut off the burr, not polish the coarse scratches out. It usually doesn't take more than 20-30 strokes total (10-15 per side) to remove the burr and get an edge that will shave arm and leg hair and catch hair on the back of my head well above the skin. The DMT stones will work just as well, if not better, but are much more expensive. Waterstones will work too, but can be a little cantankerous if you don't have your technique down. I don't use any oil on the Norton stone. If you have any ability to cut wood accurately you can make all kinds of angle jigs if you feel the need to be that OCD about your sharpening angles.
 
I agree with Me2 and his writing here . The Norton India mentioned are far more economical than diamond stones and give a great edge . The India would struggle sharpening the vanadium steels which is where a Norton crystolon or x-coarse diamond would help . Please don't become OCD as there are enough here already . DM
 
David Martin said:
I agree with Me2 and his writing here . The Norton India mentioned are far more economical than diamond stones and give a great edge . The India would struggle sharpening the vanadium steels which is where a Norton crystolon or x-coarse diamond would help . Please don't become OCD as there are enough here already . DM
Click to expand...

+1 :thumbup: ;)
 
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